On the wall of the house adjoining the tower on the Haidplatz the
inn “zum Goldenen Kreuz” is a medallion of Ludwig the First with
ornate decoration, and on the wall of the tower is another medallion
with twenty-four lines of verse about a certain royal romance. The
inscription appears to have been painted up recently, but whether
replacing an older one I cannot say. It was to the charms of one
Barbara Blomberg--who is said variously to have been landlady of
the Golden Cross, a washerwoman and the daughter of a well-to-do
citizen, that the Emperor Charles the Fifth succumbed during one of
his visits to this part of his vast dominions. The story runs that
Barbara was introduced to the Emperor that her singing might lessen
the melancholy from which he suffered. On 24 February, 1545 the lady
bore a son--tradition says in a room in this inn--who was to become
known to fame as Don John of Austria, and the victor of Lepanto. In the
following year the Emperor closed the incident by marrying Barbara
to one of his courtiers, and carried off the child to be brought up
as befitted his high (but for some years unacknowledged) paternal
origin. Among the other features are the many fountains in street and
platz, notably the one in the Moltkeplatz, and the flower-decorated
one opposite the western end of the cathedral. Just west of the bridge
gate is another old stone fountain dated 1610. But of these details
the interesting old city has much to show to the wanderer about its
by-ways. Another thing which strikes the visitor is the way in which
the chemists’ shops retain such old signs as were at one time familiar
features of our London streets, but which with us only survive on inns.
In Ratisbon the “Apotheken” are duly named the “Elephant,” the “Lion,”
the “Eagle,” and so on.
Mention has been made of Kepler Strasse, and it should be added
that the famous astronomer, John Kepler, was doubly associated with
Ratisbon. Hither he came in 1613 to appear before the Diet as the
advocate of the introduction of the Gregorian Calendar into Germany--an
introduction which was, however, delayed owing to anti-papal prejudice.
Seventeen years later Kepler journeyed from Sagan in Silesia on
horseback that he might appeal to the Diet for arrears of payment due
to him. But, reaching Ratisbon, he fell ill of a fever, and died there
on 15 November, 1630. We shall hear something of the astronomer again
lower down the river at Linz.
In this city of many ecclesiastical foundations the very horses are
said to have been taken to church in past times, though, it is true,
only once a year. On St. Leonard’s Day--6 November--the peasants from
the surrounding country used to bring their horses, gaily bedecked,
into the city and take them one at a time to peep into St. Leonard’s
church--“a pious precaution which was supposed to preserve them the
year round from the staggers, and, indeed, every other disorder that
horseflesh is heir to.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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