The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea — John Shaqi
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
“From Donaueschingen downward the meadow flowers have a subalpine
character--masses of ragged-robin and bladder-lychnis (the calyx of
which is a delicate mauve), knotweed, various campanulas (one with
bright mauve flowers in a very loose panicle), buttercups, purple sage,
and grasses in flower. On the river banks for a long way down are masses
of yellow iris, and occasionally sweet-calamus. In one meadow a purple
variety of rocket; and generally the usual English meadow flowers. Lower
down _Campanula glomerata_ grows in fine purple masses with the sage;
and in the rocky parts about Beuron were bright pinks, like the
chedder-pink, _Geranium sanguineum_, and saxifrages. A bright blue
veronica grows plentifully as you go down (_Quære spicata?_). Other
plants on the rocks were a purple lactuca, dog-rose, systopteris,
wall-rue, and _Adiantum nigrum_.”
As long as daylight lasted we botanized and sketched; and when twilight
came on we watched the glowing hill-sides fade into a simple mass in
silhouette against the starlit sky, and then slept like tired children.
CHAPTER III
Our camp was pitched very near the boundary line between Baden and
Hohenzollern, and a short distance above Sigmaringen, the residential
town of Prince Hohenzollern. We were prepared to meet a certain degree
of stateliness in the tiny capital, and our anticipations were
strengthened by the sight of a well-kept park on the river-bank long
before the town came in view. There were summer-houses and
pleasure-boats and other indications that the place belonged to somebody
of importance in the neighborhood. Further, the natural scenery was
marred by the conversion of a large overhanging limestone cliff into a
mortuary slab in memory of a princess who died in 1841, and whose
virtues were set forth in metal letters a foot long. We expected, then,
to find the town distinguished by equal pretensions and bad taste,
knowing too well how much destruction can be wrought in these modern
times by the engines at command of every long purse. To our surprise and
delight, however, the panorama which spread out before us as we
approached Sigmaringen was one of great beauty, and the town, imposingly
situated on a high promontory, made an unusually fine focus in the
composition. We found on near acquaintance that the architecture, though
not unpleasing, was by no means particularly interesting, and we did not
delay there longer than was necessary to purchase a few stores.
About forty miles by rail and road to the north of Sigmaringen is the
great castle of Hohenzollern, the seat of the imperial family of
Prussia. The present castle is of modern construction, having been begun
by Frederick William IV. and finally completed in 1867. It is remarkably
bold in situation and commanding in appearance, and, although it has
seldom sheltered any of the imperial family of late years, is kept up
with great care and is garrisoned by quite a large force of troops.
[Illustration: Sigmaringen.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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