The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
Sigmaringen marks the lower limit of the series of rocky gorges into
which the river plunges near Friedigen, and soon after leaving the town
we came into a more pastoral region again, similar to that of our first
day’s cruise. The flora changed somewhat, and fewer varieties of plants
were noticeable. Alfred Parsons makes the following remarks in his
botanical note-book: “Below Sigmaringen the meadow flora becomes more
like that of England, but still with campanulas and purple sage; also
occasionally a bright crimson dianthus with clusters of flowers. In an
ash wood beneath which we camped was an undergrowth of _Spiræa aruncus_,
all in bloom, five or six feet in height; in the wood also were
Turk’s-cap lilies, Jacobs-ladder, tall, pale-yellow phyteuma, and
commonly, near the river, gelder-rose bushes and clumps of
forget-me-nots and white water-buttercups. The general impression of the
flora is a greater prevalence of purple and blue flowers.”
[Illustration: _Hohenzollern._]
Frequent villages dot the hill-sides on either side of the broad,
fertile valley, and the river begins to feel a new tyranny of man in the
partial canalization of its channel. The current now increased in speed
between the artificially straightened banks, and, counting the kilometre
marks as we swept along, we found we were making seven and a half
kilometres (nearly five miles) an hour without lifting a paddle. A more
satisfactory mode of progression never fell to the lot of any traveller.
Perfect summer weather, a comfortable canoe to lounge in, beautiful
landscapes on all sides;
[Illustration: NUNS AT RIEDLINGEN]
and a vigorous current under the keel which gave an exhilarating sense
of added strength, much like that felt when riding a spirited horse.
Nothing more could be desired except, perhaps, unlimited time in which
to enjoy such pleasant recreation. Haste was, indeed, a slight drawback
to our enjoyment. We did not dare delay, for the season was already in
its full prime, and we knew that the gales began in the lower river as
early as the first week of September; besides, one of the party had only
a limited number of weeks at his disposal. Under other circumstances we
would have spent a day or more at Riedlingen, where we found most
interesting architecture along the river-front and saw a party of nuns
at work in a hay-field. We had a little more social success with them
than we did with their coreligionists, the monks at Beuron, for they
turned their great, cool, flapping head-dresses in our direction, and
actually seemed temporarily interested in our canoes, and in us as well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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