The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
In all probability the
unusually high water covered some of the smaller ones, and we
consequently failed to make a record of them.
[Illustration: BRIDGE AT ROTTENACKER]
Below the last weir the river is monotonous and the country not
particularly interesting. Turnip-topped church-spires rise above the
red-tiled roofs of villages clustered on the hill-sides, and but for
these features of the landscape the river might be the Thames or the
Avon. Soon, however, several vigorous streams add their waters to the
main current, its speed and strength rapidly increases, and its course
is regulated into a straight and canal-like channel. Not realizing the
speed of our progress as we floated along, we came in sight of the
village of Erbach on the hills to the left of the river much earlier in
the afternoon than we expected, and at the same moment saw, far beyond
in the blue distance, as faintly outlined as a delicate cloud-form, the
great tower of the Cathedral of Ulm breaking the low horizon line. We at
once took to our paddles and increased our pace, urged on by the sight
of our goal for the night and the beginning of our cruise in the
navigable river. In full sight of the city, some two miles away, we
passed the Iller, rushing in with a broad, pale-green flood and a
strange hissing noise like the escape of gas from soda-water, and then
the Danube, reinforced in strength and in volume, tore along with almost
angry speed, and showed great swirls where the pale waters of the Iller
wrestled with the opaque yellow of the larger stream. We saw by the
white waters at the buttresses of the railway bridge as we dashed past
that we had to deal with a current far more powerful than any we had yet
navigated, and accordingly approached the left shore with some caution,
as there was a high wall along the water’s edge and only an occasional
practicable landing-place. With all our efforts to stop our head-way we
found ourselves obliged to turn the bow up-stream and paddle hard to
keep from being swept past the town. In this way we came alongside the
float of the Donau Ruder Verein (Danube Rowing Club), and landed,
welcomed by a delegation from the committee of the club, who had heard
of our intended visit. They gave us a hand to carry the canoes up to the
boat-house and made room for them on the padded trestles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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