The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black SeaMillet, Francis Davis
Philosophy
The Danube from the Black Forest to the Black Sea
Millet, Francis Davis
Canoes and canoeing; Danube River; Danube River Valley -- Description and travel; Europe -- Description and travel
The club boat-house is a fair-sized building, well enough constructed
for the purpose, and conveniently fitted up with quarters for the crews
and stowage room for the boats, which number nearly a score, several of
them from famous makers in England, but mostly of German build.
Notwithstanding the disadvantages of rowing in so rapid a current, and
the difficulties of launching and landing the boats, the members
practise with great enthusiasm, and the club has a remarkably good
record in the boating annals of Germany. The committee placed all the
resources of the institution at our command, and not only gave us every
assistance in repairing the slight damages which our canoes had suffered
in the rough treatment they had received at the weirs, but made other
generous offers of hospitality. The president, who is a mechanical
genius of considerable fame as well as an enthusiastic sportsman and a
traveller, was devoted to our interests, and made every moment of our
stay agreeable. Before we departed our ex-cook presented the club with
his famous coffee machine as a slight acknowledgment of their kindness
to us. We have never learned how much the ranks of the Donau Ruder
Verein have been decimated by the use of this dangerous invention.
Ulm, whether it be approached by land or by water, has the uninteresting
external appearance of any modern military stronghold, for it is
surrounded by great fortifications, and an elaborately constructed
citadel occupies the whole of a flat point opposite the town on the
right bank of the river. The old town itself, once the military barrier
is passed, is a marvel of architecture and a maze of narrow, crooked
thoroughfares, many of them scarcely worthy to be dignified by the name
of streets. The wonderful cathedral, next in size to that at Cologne,
with the loftiest stone tower in the world, is not to be adequately
described within the limits of this narrative, nor was it, indeed,
thoroughly examined by us on this hasty visit. The town offered so much
to occupy our attention and command our admiration that we could only
pause to study briefly each superb monument of ancient art and hurry on
to the next. The restless river with its rushing current had
communicated its nervous haste to our spirits, and within twenty-four
hours we had seen the town, repaired and repacked our canoes, adjusted
the appliances intended for use in the large river below, and were
waiting only for the farewell festivities in the boat club to come to an
end in order to launch our canoes to the “Hip! hip!” of our sporting
friends.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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