The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and StudentBeech, Franklin
Science
The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student
Beech, Franklin
Dyes and dyeing -- Cotton
In dealing with the first of the above groups of dyes, the direct dyes,
the colourist is somewhat at a loss to explain in what manner the
combination with the cotton fibre is brought about. The affinity of
cellulose for dyes appears to be so small and its chemical activities so
weak, that to assume the existence of a reaction between the dye-stuff
and the fibre, tending to the formation of a colour lake, seems to be
untenable. Then, again, the chemical composition and constitution of the
dyes of this group are so varied that an explanation which would hold
good for one might not do so for another. The relative fastness of the
dyes against washing and soaping precludes the idea of a merely
mechanical absorption of the dye by the fibre; on the other hand the
great difference in the fastness to soaping and light between the same
dyes on cotton and wool would show that there has not been a true
formation of colour lake.
The dyeing of cotton with the second group of dyes is more easily
explained. The cotton fibre has some affinity for the tannic acid used
in preparing it and absorbs it from the mordanting bath. The tannic acid
has the property of combining with the basic constituents of these dyes
and forms a true colour lake, which is firmly fixed on the fibre. The
colour lake can be formed independently of the fibre by bringing the
tannic acid and the dye into contact with one another.
In the case of the dyes of the third group, the formation of a colour
lake between the metallic oxide and the colouring matter can be readily
demonstrated. In dyeing with these colours the cotton is first of all
impregnated with the mordanting oxide, and afterwards placed in the
dye-bath, the mordant already fixed on the fibre then reacts with the
dye, and absorbs it, thus dyeing the cotton. To some extent the dyeing
of cotton with the basic dyes of the second group and the mordant dyes
of the third group is almost a mechanical one, the cotton fibre taking
no part in it from a chemical point of view, but simply playing the part
of a base or foundation on which the colour lake may be formed. In the
case of the dyes of the fourth group, there being no chemical affinity
of the cotton known for them, these dyes cannot be used in a successful
manner; cotton will, if immersed in a bath containing them, more or less
mechanically take up some of the colour from the liquor, but such colour
can be almost completely washed out again, hence these dyes are not used
in cotton dyeing, although many attempts have been made to render them
available.
Indigo is a dye-stuff that stands by itself. Its combination with the
cotton fibre is chiefly of a physical rather than a chemical nature; it
does not form colour lakes in the same way as Alizarine and Magenta do.
Cellulose can be dissolved by certain metallic solutions and
preparations:--
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