The class of dye-stuffs included in the fourth group was named by
Bancroft the "adjective" group, because they require the aid of a
second body, named the mordant, to properly develop and to fix the
colour of the dye-stuff on the wool. It is sometimes known as the
"mordant dye-stuff" class, and this is perhaps its best name. This (p. 069)
group of colouring matters comprises dye-stuffs of both natural and
artificial origin, the latter of which are getting very numerous and
valuable, and bid fair to displace the natural members of the group.
With but few exceptions the adjective dye-stuffs are not colouring
matters of themselves, _i.e._, they will not dye wool or other fibres
by themselves. Some are coloured bodies, such as fustic, logwood,
Persian berries, Anthracene yellow, etc., but many are not so, and
some possess but little colour, which, moreover, gives no clue to the
colours that can be developed therefrom.
All the colouring matters of this class possess either a distinctively
acid character, or belong to the class of phenols, which, while not
being true acids, still possess weak acid functions that enable them
to combine with bases like acids. These bodies have the property of
combining with bases and metallic oxides, such as soda, potash, iron,
alumina, chrome, tin, nickel, cobalt, etc., forming a series of salts.
Those of soda and potash are usually soluble in water, while those of
the other metals are insoluble, and are usually of strong colour. It
is on this property of forming these insoluble coloured bodies, colour
lakes, as they are called, that the value of the adjective dye-stuffs
in dyeing depends.
The group of adjective colouring matters may be subdivided into two
divisions, not depending upon any differences in the mode of
application, but upon certain differences in the results they give.
Perhaps the best example of an adjective dye-stuff is Alizarine. This
body has a faint red colour, but of itself possesses absolutely no
colouring power. When, however, it is brought into combination with
such metallic oxide as alumina, iron and chrome, then it forms
coloured bodies, the colour of which varies with the metal with which
it is in union, thus with alumina, it is a bright red; with iron, a
dark violet, almost black; with chrome, a deep red; with tin, a (p. 070)
scarlet; and so on. This is a representative of the true adjective
dyes, which comprise most of the so-called Alizarine dye-stuffs, and
logwood, fustic, and most of the natural dye-stuffs. Another division
of the group includes a few colouring matters of recent introduction,
like Azo green, Alizarine yellow, Galloflavine, Anthracene yellow,
Flavazol, etc., which, while forming insoluble colour lakes with
metallic oxides, do not give different colours with different metals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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