This class of dye-stuffs, owing to their forming these insoluble
colours, gives really fast colours, capable of resisting lengthened
exposure to light and air, and resisting washing, acids and alkalies.
Of course there are differences between the various members of the
group in this respect, and even the resisting power of an individual
member depends a good deal on the metal with which it is combined, and
the care with which the process of dyeing has been carried out.
In the dyeing of these adjective dye-stuffs, upon the various fibres,
and on wool in any particular, the object is to bring about in any
convenient way the formation on the fibre of the metallic combination
of the colouring principle and the mordant, and it is obvious that if
a satisfactory result is to be obtained, then this must be done in a
very thorough manner. There are three ways in which this combination
of colouring principle and mordant may be brought about in dyeing wool
with these bodies, we may either mordant the wool first, and then
apply the dye-stuff, or we may impregnate the wool with the dye-stuff
first, and then fix or develop the colour afterwards, or, lastly, we
may carry on both operations in one process. Each of these methods
will now be discussed, and their relative advantages pointed out.
The mordanting method is one of the most generally useful. It consists
in first causing a combination of the metal with the wool fibre. (p. 071)
This is carried out by boiling the wool in a solution of the metal,
such as bichromate of potash, chrome alum or chrome fluoride when
chrome is to be used as a mordant, with alum or sulphate of alumina
when alumina is required to be deposited on the fibre, and with
copperas when iron is to be the mordant. It is best to add a little
oxalic acid, cream of tartar, or tartaric acid to the mordanting bath,
which addition helps in the decomposition of the metallic salt by the
wool fibre, and the deposition of the metallic oxide on the wool. With
bichromate of potash, sulphuric acid is often used, much depending
upon the character of the mordant required. Some dye-stuffs, such as
logwood for blacks, work best when the wool is mordanted with chromic
acid, which is effected when sulphuric acid is the assistant mordant.
Other dye-stuffs, such as fustic, Persian berries and Alizarine
yellow, are best dyed on a basic chrome mordant, which is effected
when tartar or oxalic acid is the assistant mordant used, or when some
other form of chrome compound than bichrome is employed.
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