The actual mordanting is done by boiling the wool in a bath of the
mordant, the quantity of which should be varied according to the
particular mordant that is being employed and to the quantity of
dye-stuffs which is to be used. It is obvious that for a fixing deep
shade of, say, Alizarine on the wool, a larger quantity of mordant
will be required than to fix a pale shade; sometimes this point is
overlooked and the same amount of mordant employed for pale or deep
shades. The best plan of carrying out the mordanting is to enter the
wool in the cold bath or at a hand heat, and then raise to the boil
and continue the boiling for one hour; of course the goods should be
kept turned over during the process to facilitate the even mordanting
of the wool. A great deal of the success of dyeing with the dye-stuffs
now under consideration depends upon the efficiency with which the (p. 072)
mordanting has been carried out. If this is at all unevenly done then
no amount of care in the succeeding dyeing process will lead to the
development of an even dyeing. After the mordanting is finished the
goods should be rinsed with water, but it is not necessary to dry
them.
The next stage in the process is the actual dyeing operations, which
is done by immersing the mordanted wool in a bath of the dye-stuff or
mixture of dye-stuffs.
The fundamental principle is to bring about the combination between
the colouring principle of the dye-stuff and the metallic oxide which
has been deposited on the wool in the previous mordanting process. As
neither of these bodies, however, is very energetic it follows that
the action must be a slow one, and, therefore, time is a highly
important factor in the dyeing of wool by the mordanting process. The
combination between the dye-stuff and the mordant is influenced also
by temperature, and is most active at the boiling point of water. It
is, therefore, needful to conduct this operation at that temperature,
but it would be a wrong way to introduce the mordanted material into a
boiling bath of the dye-stuff; nothing would conduce to uneven dyeing
so much as that course. The best method of working, which, moreover,
is most particularly applicable to the series of Alizarine dye-stuffs,
is to enter the goods in a cold bath of the dye-stuff, and to work
them for a short time to get them thoroughly impregnated, a condition
which is essential if even dyeing is the goal aimed at, then to raise
the temperature of the bath gradually to the boil, the goods being in
the meantime well worked. The dyeing is continued for from one to one
and a half hours at the boil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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