The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
Agriculturists and agricultural chemists know that _alumina_ constitutes
three eighths or more of a fruitful soil; some vegetables, likewise,
contain this earth in their composition. _Iron_ is also a component part
of many soils, particularly those in which a _red_ colour is predominant;
hence it is, probably, a component part of all drugs used for browns,
fawns, and blacks. It will be seen what affinity cotton has for _iron_ in
the dye of _buff_[4] upon cotton; and it seems reasonable to conclude
that this metal not only produces the black, grey, and brown hues, but,
with lime, forms a component part of the drugs themselves which give the
brown dyes. It may be here also mentioned, that the _red_ colour of the
blood has been by many chemists supposed to arise from the iron which it
contains; MR. BRANDE, however, does not, from his own experiments,
conclude this to be the fact. The blood of animals is, nevertheless,
occasionally used for dyeing, as will be seen under _Adrianople red_. See
KIRWAN _on Manures_, _&c._ and DAVY'S _Agricultural Chemistry_.
From the acids or oxygen combined with alkalies, earths, or metals,
almost innumerable mordants, as we have seen, are formed; and upon the
correct and proper application of these to the cloth or other matters to
be dyed, depends the goodness and permanence of the colours. The dyer
cannot, therefore, be too scrupulously attentive to this portion of his
art.
In dyeing the student ought also to remember, that the material to be
dyed combines intimately, in numerous instances, with alumina or other
mordants; in the case of alumina it, in some instances, takes up from one
twelfth to one fourth of its weight of alum, leaving the alum bath nearly
tasteless. So also will rich extract of American bark, or even weld, when
the proportion of weld is in weight more than two to one of the wool,
form a triple compound with the cloth and alum, of permanent duration.
All these preliminaries the author considers of the first importance to
be understood, and he has, therefore, mentioned them again and again. For
so doing he is sure that he shall be excused in the dye-house, although
not perhaps by the critics, whose candour he nevertheless respectfully
solicits.
We now proceed to the _application of mordants_. In regard to muslins and
calicoes, the alum is to be mixed with gum and carried to the piece, as
will be described below in the _Calico-Printers' mordant_, and then
immersed in the dye-bath: it thus receives the base or mordant. If the
base be alum and the dye-bath madder, then, where the block strikes the
pattern with the alumine base, the colour will come out _red_; the other
parts will clean and bleach white. If alum and iron form the base, the
colour will be purple; if iron alone be applied, and galls, sumach,
logwood, &c. are the component parts of the dye-bath, then it will be
_black_.
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