The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
_The Calico-Printers' mordant or base of alum for yellow and red goods,
either for printing or dyeing; and on compound colours._
Take one gallon of soft and pure water, of a heat of 150°, three pounds
of common alum, one pound and a half of sugar (acetate) of lead; mix
these together, and let them stand for two or three days, so that they
may incorporate, often stirring them during that interval; then add two
ounces of pearl-ash, and the same quantity of clean powdered chalk or
whiting. After a time the clear liquor, now become _an acetate of alum_,
must be drawn off. When used, it is thickened either with paste, flour,
or gum arabic, or senegal; four pounds of either of the gums to each
gallon of liquor[5]. A block or a press similar to a copper-plate press
for paper, but much larger, and having the copper plates in proportion,
is employed to spread the acetate of alum from a utensil called a sieve,
which is, however, not porous, while a boy or girl called a _Teerer_,
works it smooth; when smooth on the sieve, the printer applies his block,
and charges it with the acetate of alum; the block thus charged, is
correctly put on the cotton cloth, which is laid upon a blanket spread
upon a table; it is then struck with a mallet once or twice, by which, or
by the pressure of the rolling-press, if copper-plate, the acetate of
alum is driven into the pores of the cloth. The cloth thus prepared, is
hung up in a hot stove, and dried by a high degree of heat. The goods are
now ready, if for _red_, for the _madder_; and if for _yellow_, for the
_weld_ copper. Sometimes, however, lately, the colour is previously
prepared, and applied at once in more instances than are prudent. To the
above mordant, _M'Kernan_ adds three ounces of _sulphate of copper_,
omitting the potash; and he adds, "When the colour is wanting on the
scarlet cast, omit the sulphate of copper."
Wool readily takes the alum at a boiling heat; _common alum_ is in many
instances proper for wool; and in others, where it might be improper, it
is corrected by the use of argol or cream of tartar.
_Yellow_ and _red_ produce _orange_; _red_ and _blue_, _purple_; but upon
_cotton_, a scarlet, purple, or crimson cannot be produced in any way
equal to those colours in wool or silk. _Yellow_ and _blue_ form the
_green_.
_On Bleaching Linen, Cotton, &c._
We cannot enter with much minuteness into this part of the subject, more
especially as the _art of bleaching_ is usually a separate one from that
of _dyeing_. Yet as in fact the arts of _dyeing_ and of _bleaching_
depend in a great degree on the same principles, some notice of
bleaching, in a treatise on dyeing, seems absolutely necessary.
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