The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
Forty or fifty pounds of alum being dissolved in a copper of hot water,
the solution is to be poured into a tub containing forty or fifty pails
of cold water; during the mixing of the solution of alum with the water
it should be well stirred lest the cold water should crystallize the alum
and spot the silk; when, however, this happens, dipping silk in warm
water will dissolve the alum. The silk should be alumed cold, for, if
hot, the lustre of the silk will be injured. Alum is used for certain
reds and yellows but not for blue. See also chapter VI.
When silk is deprived of its gum so as to acquire the greatest possible
degree of whiteness, it is still necessary to have different shades of
white, some yellow, some blue, and others reddish; these are known under
five denominations, namely, _China white_, _India white_, _thread or milk
white_, _silver and azure white_. All these whites, although differing
from each other by _very slight shades_, are nevertheless apparent,
especially when compared with each other, which will be seen in the
processes of dyeing silk.
For _ungumming and boiling, whitening and sulphuring silk_, see chapter
VI.
We have described _M'Kernan's_ method of preparing and neutralizing
sulphate of indigo in pages 51 and 52, to which the reader will be kind
enough to refer: the following _blue vat_ is from _Macquer_.
_The_ BLUE _vat of indigo for silk._
This should be so contrived that heat may be applied to it, which it now
mostly is, by steam, as well for woollen woad vats as for indigo vats.
For silk, take eight pounds of the finest indigo and six pounds of the
best pearl-ash, and from three to four ounces of madder for every pound
of ash, besides eight pounds of bran for the whole, washed in several
waters to take the flour out. When washed, and the water squeezed out,
the bran is to be put at the bottom of the vat; the pearl-ash and the
madder being mixed by bruising them roughly together, are now to be
boiled a quarter of an hour in a copper containing two-thirds of the vat;
the fire being damped, the liquor is then suffered to rest. Two or three
days previous to this the indigo is to be steeped in a bucket of warm
water, and washed well, the water being changed once or more. Some dyers
begin by boiling the indigo in a ley made with one pound of pearl-ash and
two buckets of water; they afterwards pound it in a mortar quite wet,
and, when it becomes like paste, fill the mortar with the liquor before
boiled, and still hot, stirring it for some time. It is then suffered to
stand a few moments, and then the clear is poured off into a separate
boiler or into the vat. The same quantity of the mixture is then poured
upon the indigo remaining in the mortar and mixed as before; again the
clear is poured off into the boiler, and the operation is repeated till
the whole of the indigo is dissolved in the liquor. The whole of the
liquor in the boiler is now to be gradually poured into the vat on the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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