The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
GALLS are excrescences produced on the _quercus infectoria_, a species of
oak growing throughout Asia Minor. The gall grows on the shoots of the
young boughs, and is produced by an insect, the _cynips quercusfolii_;
this insect punctures the tender shoot with its sting and deposits its
egg in the puncture; the egg is soon hatched, and the irritation of the
maggot feeding on the plant produces the wen or gall-nut. When the nuts
are gathered before the worm within changes to a fly, and not yet having
eaten its way out, they are of a dusky green colour, and are called in
commerce _blue_ galls, and are by far the best. Those collected after the
fly has eaten its way out have a hole in each, are of a whitish yellow
colour, considerably lighter than the blue-galls, and of an inferior
quality: they are brought to this country chiefly from Aleppo. They are
used in large quantities in the arts, principally for dyeing, and making
ink. They contain a large quantity of _Tannin_ and _Gallic acid_.
INDIGO is a well known deep blue substance, obtained from the _Indigofera
tinctoria_ or Indigo bearing plant, a native of the East Indies, which is
propagated by seed and will thrive in most tropical climates; hence we
have good indigo from South America, the East Indies, Carolina, &c. The
chief criterion of the goodness of indigo is, if, when cut with a knife,
it exhibits a reddish copper-like appearance; where this shade is not, or
only very slight, the indigo is of inferior value. It is prepared by
macerating the leaves in water, whence is obtained the blue feculence or
indigo. Indigo is insoluble in water, but soluble in sulphuric acid,
hence a solution of it in this acid, forming a _sulphate of indigo_, is
well known in the art of dyeing.
The best indigo is that called _Flora_, which floats in water, all the
other kinds sink in that fluid.
The constituent parts of indigo are Carbon, 73.22, Nitrogen 11.26, Oxygen
12.60, and Hydrogen, 2.92, = 100.
When indigo is digested in concentrated sulphuric acid, it is converted
into a peculiar blue substance, commonly called _sulphate of indigo_;
this colouring matter has been, however, lately named CERULIN, by MR. W.
CRUM, who has made many experiments on it; (see notes to _Bertholet_,
vol. ii. p. 357. et seq.) he observes that _cerulin_ dissolves more
abundantly in sulphuric acid than water; but this does not prove the
formation of a compound entitled to be called sulphate of indigo; that,
such a solution differs in no respect from that of resins in acids or in
alcohol. Another substance has been also obtained from indigo by MR.
CRUM, of a purple colour, which he calls _Phenicin_; it dissolves both in
water and alcohol.
IRON rarely in its metallic state enters into the manipulations of
dyeing, but its _sulphate_, _muriate_, _acetate_, &c. as well as its
_oxides_ contribute largely to the dyer's art.
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