We turn and turn again, and by a sinuous road we enter into a country
of tombs. Not, indeed, that they were not everywhere, because our steps
since our departure have been accompanied by them. The evening star,
like a saint praying in solitude, sees the sun disappear beneath her
under the deep and diaphanous waters. The funereal region that we scan
in the pallid light of a dreary, waning day, is covered with a rude and
yellow growth like the pelt of a tiger. From the base to the ridge are
hillocks between which our road winds; and, on the opposite side of the
valley, as far as the eye can reach, are mountains burrowed like a
rabbit-warren with tombs.
In China death holds as great a place as life. As soon as they have
gone the dead become more important and more to be suspected, enduring
as morose and malevolent powers whom it is well to conciliate. The
bonds between the living and the dead are broken with difficulty. The
rites continue and are perpetuated. The living must go frequently to
the family tomb. They burn incense, fire off crackers, and offer rice
and pork. In the shape of a scrap of paper they leave a visiting-card
held in place with a pebble. The dead in their thick coffins rest a
long time inside the house. Then they are carried out of doors and
piled up in low sheds, until the geomancer has found the proper site
and location. Then the final resting-place is determined on with great
particularity, for fear that the dissatisfied spirits should wander
elsewhere. They cut the tombs in the sides of mountains, in the solid
and primordial earth; and, while the living, in unhappy multitudes, are
crowded in valley-bottoms, in low and malarial plains, the dead open
their dwellings to sun and space in high and airy places.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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