During the Middle Ages extravagance prevailed in both male and female
costume. Handsome furs were in great request, and several times
sumptuary laws were passed. Men wore eight indispensable articles of
dress, the shirt, breeches, stockings, shoes, coat, surcoat or
cotehardie, mantle, and head dress. The coat or under-dress corresponded
with the tunic of the ancients, and was entirely hidden, with the
exception of the sleeves, by the surcoat. There were two kinds of
mantles, one open in the front, the two sides connected by a strap
resting on the chest, the other was open on the right side and had one
end thrown over the left shoulder. Head coverings were of various
descriptions; but many adopted hoods with long points, which were used
to attach them to the belt when not in use. The assembling of Parliament
in the reign of Richard II. gives the lay, spiritual, and legal peers in
their usual costumes, and is reproduced from Planché's "History of
British Costume." The Bishops are in cowls near the throne, the judges
in coifs and furred robes, the Earls of Westmorland and Northumberland
stand in front. The Duke of Hereford, in high cap, is to the left of the
throne, and Exeter, Salisbury, and other peers are seated opposite the
judges. During the reign of Richard II., which lasted over twenty years
(1377 to 1399), there were many curious fashions in masculine attire.
The peaked shoes, chained to the knee, were not more ridiculous than the
deep, wide sleeves commonly called pokeys, which were shaped like a
bagpipe and were worn by all classes. Many writers refer to them as the
devil's receptacles, as whatever could be stolen was hidden away in
their folds. Some were wide and reached to the feet, others to the knee,
and they were full of slits. Hose were often of different colours.
Parti-coloured suits were also in favour, and these were frequently
scalloped at the edges and embroidered with mottoes and other devices.
Chaucer, who wrote the "Canterbury Tales" towards the end of Richard's
reign, describes in the most graphic manner the apparel of his
contemporaries. "The haberdasher, carpenter, weaver, dyer, and tapestry
worker, all wealthy burghers of the City of London, were clothed in a
livery, and the handles of their knives, pouches, and girdles were
ornamented with silver. The clergy were not to be distinguished from the
laity, and rode on horseback, glittering with gold, in gowns of scarlet
and green, fine with cut work. Their mitres embellished with pearls like
the head of a queen, and staffs of precious metals set with jewels."
Even the parish clerk is said to be "spruce and foppish in his dress."
The author of an anonymous work called the "Eulogium," of this date,
says:--"The commoners were besotted in excess of apparel. Some in wide
surcoats reaching to their loins, some in a garment reaching to their
heels, closed before and sticking out at the sides, so that at the back
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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