This explanation must be borne in mind when bewildered by the first
sight of these ruined canals, either in reality or on a plan. As one
approaches the mound Babil from the north or the east—the mound, by the
way, which alone has preserved its ancient name to the present day—one
encounters the annoyance of this ruthless disturbance of the ground; it
is hardly possible to see the mound till one has climbed the embankment
nearest to it, but the impression is then all the more striking (Fig.
5).
The mound rises with a steep slope to the height of 22 metres above the
plain. Its area forms a square of about 250 metres, and this hill,
consisting of broken brick or clayey earth, is pierced by deep ravines
and tunnels, while on the north and south-west remains of walls of very
considerable height are still standing, with courses of mud brick held
together by layers of well-preserved reed stems. They date from a later
period, and may have belonged to a fort which was erected in Sassanide
or Arabic times on the already ruined Babylonian building.
The astoundingly deep pits and galleries that occur in places owe their
origin to the quarrying for brick that has been carried on extensively
during the last decades. The buildings of ancient Babylon, with their
excellent kiln bricks, served even in antiquity, perhaps in Roman times,
certainly in Parthian days, as a quarry for common use. Later centuries
appear to have done less to destroy the ruins, but in modern times the
quarrying for bricks has assumed far more important dimensions. About
twenty years ago, when the Euphrates first began to pour its life-giving
waters into the Hindiyeh, a side branch somewhat farther above Babylon,
near Musseyib, an attempt was made to head back the river into its old
bed by building up a dam, the _Sedde_, which with us has a somewhat evil
reputation. Building was carried on year after year without interference
at this dam, as long as the height of the water permitted, and that with
bricks from Babylon. Quite recently this outrage has been checked by the
powerful influence of Halil Bey, Director-General of the Ottoman
museums, and of Bedri Bey, the Turkish Commissioner on the excavations;
so now there is a well-grounded hope that the ruins of the most
celebrated city of the East, or perhaps of the world, shall go down to
posterity without further injury. Soon after the commencement of the
excavations I had interested myself in checking this spoliation, but
that was possible only for the Kasr, at Babil it still went on. Even at
the Kasr I had to drive these workers out of their pits, and we set the
people to work in our diggings, as the Arab is entirely indifferent as
to the method by which he earns his scanty wage. The only objectors were
the contractors, through whom the materials for the Sedde building were
sold. Very recently the latter also made an attack on the tower of
Borsippa, but their barbarous attempt was promptly stopped by the action
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