And in the Highlands from Stirling to Inverness what magic, what
changing colours and shadows there were on the age-worn treeless hills,
and in the valleys with their clear, pure streams receiving tribute from
unnumbered little rills and springs, some dropping water drop by drop as
though it were fairy-distilled; and everywhere the heather giving to the
mountain-landscape a hue of rich purplish-brown, and to the air an odour
of aromatic fragrance.
On to the north-west beyond Inverness there is the same kind of a
treeless highland country; and then after a few hours of travel one
looks out across the water from Kyle and beholds Skye, where Cuchulainn
is by some believed to have passed his young manhood learning feats of
arms from fairy women,--Skye, dark, mountainous, majestic, with its
waterfalls turning to white spray as they tumble from cliff to cliff
into the sound, from out the clouds that hide their mountain-summit
sources.
In the Outer Hebrides, as in the Aranmore Islands off West Ireland,
influences are at work on the Celtic imagination quite different from
those in Skye and its neighbouring islands. Mountainous billows which
have travelled from afar out of the mysterious watery waste find their
first impediment on the west of these isolated Hebridean isles, and they
fling themselves like mad things in full fury against the wild rocky
islets fringing the coast. White spray flashes in unearthly forms over
the highest cliff, and the unrestrained hurricane whirls it far inland.
Ocean's eternally murmuring sounds set up a responsive vibration in the
soul of the peasant, as he in solitude drives home his flocks amid the
weird gloaming at the end of a December day; and, later, when he sits
brooding in his humble cottage at night, in the fitful flickering of a
peat fire, he has a mystic consciousness that deep down in his being
there is a more divine music compared with which that of external nature
is but a symbol and an echo; and, as he stirs the glowing peat-embers,
phantoms from an irretrievable past seem to be sitting with him on the
edge of the half-circle of dying light. Maybe there are skin-clad
huntsmen of the sea and land, with spears and knives of bone and flint
and shaggy sleeping dogs, or fearless sea-rovers resting wearily on
shields of brilliant bronze, or maybe Celtic warriors fierce and bold;
and then he understands that his past and his present are one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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