Two miles south of the Plateau there is another hill nearly as high, and
having the finest outlook towards the sea. On this hill is the mission
station, Baraka.
[Illustration:
MISSION HOUSE AT BARAKA, GABOON.
The roof is of palm thatch, upon which poles of bamboo are placed.
]
The house, as one approaches it, appears through a screen of palms and
orange-trees, of the strong-scented frangipani, the scarlet hibiscus,
and oleander growing as high as the house. There is an abundance of
roses everywhere. There are also a few coffee-trees in the yard, and one
exquisite cinnamon.
The view from the veranda of the mission house at Baraka is a scene of
magic beauty. The joyous lavishness of colour excludes from the mind the
thought of the deadly serpent and the relentless fever-fiend that
stealthily glide within the shadows. The long hillside sloping to the
beach is half covered with mangoes and palms, oleander and orange-trees,
and the graceful plumes of the bamboo that wave to and fro and tumble in
the breeze like children at play. In front is the open sea. On the left,
looking up the estuary, one sees in the bright morning light a fairy
island of deep emerald set in a silver sea, and beyond it a distant
shore in dim purple and gold. And even while one is looking, the island,
the silver sea and the golden-purple shore gradually dissolve and
disappear in the haze that gathers and deepens as the day advances. But
again, and always, it appears in the clear evening light, more beautiful
than ever.
I found it impossible to persuade my friends that Gaboon is not the
hottest place in the world, since it is not only in Africa, but at the
equator. This was also my own idea of Gaboon until it was corrected by
experience. It is not as hot at the equator as it is several hundred
miles north or south of it. The thermometer ranges between 72° and 86°,
seldom going above or below this range. But the humidity is extreme (not
surpassed, I believe, in the world) and this makes it seem hotter than
these figures would indicate. The atmosphere feels as if it were about
fifty per cent. hot water. At the coast there is the delightful
sea-breeze—but as soon as one says it is “delightful” he is reminded
that it is very dangerous.
One hears from the natives of the coast more complaints of cold than of
heat and in the hottest weather their black skin is always cool. The hot
months are December and January; and the coolest are June and July.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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