The wet and dry seasons of Gaboon are very distinct. The dry season
begins in May and lasts for four months, during all which time there is
not a shower. Then the wet season begins in September and lasts four
months, during which it rains almost incessantly. This is followed by a
short dry season of two months and a short wet season of two months,
thus completing the year. This succession of the seasons is as regular
and distinct as our winter and summer. The effect of the long dry season
corresponds in some respects to our winter, giving vegetation a rest.
Europeans delight in the dry season, although towards the last they long
for the rain. But the natives dislike the dry season, which is too cool
for their comfort; and since the land-breeze is very strong, and their
bodies but slightly protected with clothing, there is much sickness
among them in these months.
I never told the Africans about ice, nor described snow, lest it would
overtax their credulity and discredit me; for if they should doubt I had
no way of proving it. But after the French hospital was built the Gaboon
people not only heard about ice but many of them actually saw it. One
day we obtained a piece of ice at Baraka, sufficient to make ice-cream.
When we had finished eating I took some of it out to the men of my
boat-crew and after telling them that it was something which we liked
very much, I gave a teaspoonful to Makuba, the captain. No sooner had it
entered his mouth than he leaped into the air with a wild yell—wild even
for Africa. He shouted: “I’m killed! I’m burned to death! I’m burned to
death!”
The extremest sensation of cold seems to be not distinguishable from
that of extreme heat. Never having tasted anything cold, it is
positively painful to them.
Despite the exaggeration of the Old Coaster we are constantly reminded
that, after all, Gaboon is _The White Man’s Grave_. There were a number
of Anamese prisoners of war whom the French had transported from Anam.
They were employed in the construction of two miles of road along the
beach. During the few months of work seventy out of one hundred died. In
this dreadful death rate there were probably unusual factors. The road
crosses a marsh that is a first-class incubator for mosquitoes. And
besides, it is not likely that the men were reasonably provided with
food or medical attendance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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