At a little later date the sleeves of dresses were puffed at the shoulders, and when the dress was made open above the girdle, what was called a “partlet”—a kind of habit-shirt—was worn beneath it, and carried up to the throat. Sleeves were one of the strong points of the ladies of those times. They were independent articles of clothing, and were attached at pleasure to the rest of the costume. “Much splendour,” says Mr. J. R. Planché, “was lavished on this part of the dress, and its various fashions were singularly quaint and elegant.” Amongst the inventories of Henry VIII.’s reign we find “three pair of purple satin sleeves for women; one pair of linen sleeves, paned with gold over the arm, quilted with black silk, and wrought with flowers between the panes and at the hands; one pair of sleeves of purple gold tissue damask wire, each sleeve tied with aglets of gold; one pair of crimson satin sleeves, four buttons of gold being set on each sleeve, and in every button nine pearls.” Necklaces and other ornaments of jewellery were much worn. No dress was complete without a girdle, and from the girdle was suspended by means of chains such articles as tablets, knives and purses. Sometimes, in place of the chains, the girdles themselves had a long pendant, which was elaborately decorated. We get a glimpse of the style of dress amongst commoner folk, in the history of a famous clothier known as “Jack of Newbury.” When Jack was married, the bride, in her wedding costume, must have cut quite a picturesque figure. “The bride,” we read, “being dressed in a gown of sheep’s russet and a kirtle of fine worsted, her head attired in a _billiment_ (habiliment) of gold, and her hair, as yellow as gold, hanging down behind her, which was curiously combed and plaited, according to the manner of those days, was led to church by two boys with bride laces, and rosemary tied about their silken sleeves.” Mrs. Jack became a widow, and after she had laid aside her weeds she is described as coming one day out of the kitchen “in a fair train gown stuck full of silver pins, having a white cap on her head, with cuts of curious needlework under the same, and an apron before her as white as driven snow.” The ordinary costume for men of the upper ranks in the time of Henry VIII. was a full-skirted jacket or doublet, with large sleeves to the wrists, over which was hung a short cloak or coat, with loose hanging sleeves and a broad, rolling collar of fur. To these articles of dress was added a brimmed cap, jewelled and bordered with ostrich feathers; stockings and square-toed shoes. A sumptuary law was passed in 1533, limiting the use of certain expensive stuffs and valuable personal ornaments to certain classes. Common people and serving men, for example, were confined to the use of cloth of a fixed price, and lamb’s fur only, and they were forbidden to wear any ornaments or even buttons of gold, silver, or gilt work, excepting the badge of their lord or master.