The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and PatagoniaSpears, John Randolph
History
The Gold Diggings of Cape Horn: A Study of Life in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia
Spears, John Randolph
Patagonia (Argentina and Chile) -- Description and travel
Facing the plaza was the old official residence of the Governor. It was
one of the few buildings remaining from the early days. It was a wooden
structure that had originally had a shingle roof over all, but the
moss-grown shingles had rotted away in patches, and had been replaced
with odds and ends of board, tin, and sheet-iron. The contrast between
the Governor in his gorgeous uniform and his official house was
something stunning. The home was the only real shabby building in town.
The traveller who lands in Punta Arenas and fails to climb the hills
behind the town makes a mistake, because the picture is wonderfully
beautiful and striking as well. The yellowish hills of Tierra del Fuego
rise up in the east beyond the broad waters of the strait. The
snow-capped peaks of Mt. Sarmiento and its neighbors appear above the
horizon at the south, while in the west the evergreen mountains rise
boldly up from the water's edge. And then, right at the foot of these
dark-green mountains lies the zinc and pink town, the most absurd
foreground to a magnificent landscape that ever was imagined.
The lower hills to the northwest of the town have been chopped over in
part and are covered with dead trunks of trees, giving the landscape the
appearance of what the early settlers in the forest districts of the
United States called a deadening. The trees seemed to have been killed
by some kind of an epidemic. They say in the town that the trees were
killed by lightning, but I did not see any marks of lightning on the
trunks. However they died, the landscape there is wild enough to please
an insane artist.
The only manufacturing industries of the place are the saw-mills and a
brick-yard. The saw-mills are located some distance from the village,
and are not novel, but the brick-yard is right at hand. I examined the
brick, and found a product that I had not seen equalled since I saw the
courthouse in Greer County, Tex., which had crumbled under a summer
squall. Even the hardest burned brick in this kiln could be broken with
the naked hands.
A worse industry than brick-making, however, was started some years ago
in the town. What they called a vein of coal was discovered some five
miles from the beach, and, after some talk, a company was formed to
exploit it. A pier was built at the beach, a railroad laid thence to the
mine, and rolling stock brought out from England. This done, they found
that they had a lignite instead of a coal mine. The pier has gone to
pieces, and the old locomotive could be seen partly buried in the sand
not far from the head of the ruined pier. This is the coal of which all
the writers who have visited the strait speak enthusiastically.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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