The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Sadler's Wells was a tea-garden with a music-room before Rosoman
pulled down the building to put up a theatre. White Conduit House used
to take fifty pounds on a Sunday afternoon for sixpenny tea tickets,
and its white bread was considered a great luxury. The bowling alleys
of Marylebone Gardens were famous; and there were tea-gardens and a
bowling-green at the Yorkshire Stingo, opposite Lisson Grove. Kilburn
Wells advertised that its gardens and great room were adapted to the
use of "the politest companies," and at Jenny's Whim there was a great
garden, in different parts of which were recesses, and in a large piece
of water facing the tea alcoves big fish and mermaids showed themselves
above the surface. The Apollo Gardens in the Westminster Road, and
Cuper's Gardens opposite Somerset House, were amongst these old places
of amusement, most of which are now only names. There is, however, at
the present time a tavern with tea-gardens of the old-fashioned kind
quite close to London, which, besides its picturesqueness, has other
recommendations which give it a right to inclusion in a "Gourmet's
Guide."
The Bull and Bush at North End, Hampstead, which is the tavern to
which I refer, has no very long history behind it. It was a farmhouse
when Jack Straw's Castle and the Spaniards were inns with tea-gardens
attached, the gardens of the latter house being laid out in the formal
Dutch style, which became fashionable after the Revolution. Tradition
has it that the Bull and Bush was at one time Hogarth's house, and Mr
Austin Dobson, who garnered information from all quarters into his book
on Hogarth, admits the claim of the house to this distinction, but
thinks that it was a house to which Hogarth went for "a visit." There
are long periods in Hogarth's life, before his father-in-law, Sir John
Thornhill, forgave him for his elopement with his daughter and took
the young pair to live with him in the family house in Covent Garden,
of which no record has been kept, and I should like to imagine that
the blue-eyed, bold young artist carried away the girl he loved to the
farmhouse on the breezy common to spend their honeymoon there, and that
he and she together planted the ring of fir-trees in the garden which
are still called "Hogarth's firs." The house ceased to be a farm, and
became a place of refreshment in later days, and W. H. Pyne (Ephraim
Hardcastle), in his collection of essays, "Wine and Walnuts," tells
of an imaginary excursion made to the Bull and Bush by a party which
included Sir Joshua Reynolds, Gainsborough, Sterne and Garrick, and
puts in Gainsborough's mouth praise of the creamy milk and the fine
Dutch damask to be found at the little inn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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