The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
It would be possible to write a history of the Savoy by taking note of
the successive improvements and additions made to it. It would also be
possible to tell the history of the great restaurant by an account of
some of the eras of great dinners, the period, for instance, when the
South African millionaires were spending money like water during the
great "boom," and the period of freak dinners, when Caruso sang from a
gondola to diners sitting by a canal in Venice, which was really the
flooded courtyard; and when, on another occasion, the same space was
turned into a Japanese garden for a Japanese dinner. I was a guest
at some of these great dinners, at the Rouge et Noire one which two
magnates of the financial world gave to celebrate a great _coup_ at
Monte Carlo, when all the decorations of the table, all the flowers, as
much of the napery as was possible, reproduced the two colours, when
the waiters wore red shirts and red gloves, and the number on which the
money was won was to be found everywhere in various forms on the table.
And I was bidden to the return banquet, a white and green one, which
strove to outdo the luxury of the former one, whereat fruit-trees
bearing fruit grew apparently through the table, and each chair was a
little bower of foliage.
But I prefer to chat concerning the men who made the history of the
house. Not the men who pulled the strings behind the scenes, the Board
of Directors and their admirable managing director, Mr Reeves Smith,
but the men whom the public saw or heard of in the restaurant, the
general managers, the managers of the restaurant, and the chefs. The
managers whom I knew were Ritz, Mengay, Pruger, Gustave, and now Blond.
In the restaurant were Echenard, Joseph, Jules, Renault, and now Soi.
The chefs have been Escoffier, Thouraud, whom Joseph brought over with
him from Paris, Tripod, and now Rouget; and most of these I knew well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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