The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
When Mr D'Oyly Carte was putting in order the organisation of the
newly opened Savoy Hotel, he, at Monte Carlo, asked M. Ritz, who was
then at the Grand Hotel there, to come to London and take charge of
the Savoy Restaurant. M. Ritz came and brought M. Escoffier with him
to make history in the kitchens. When M. Ritz permanently took over
the management of the hotel and the restaurant he asked M. Echenard,
the proprietor of the Hotel du Louvre at Marseilles, to come to London
and assist him in the restaurant. This triumvirate worked admirably
together. M. Ritz, thin, nervous, splendidly neat, knowing all his
patrons and their tastes, was a great _maître d'hôtel_ as well as a
great manager. The saying which he constantly quoted, "The customer
is always right," he acted up to. If some ignorant diner found fault
with one of M. Escoffier's most exquisite creations it would be swept
away without a word and something suited to a lower intelligence and an
uncultivated palate substituted for it. If an old and valued customer
had come into the restaurant and had ordered for dinner, tripe and
onions and sausages and mashed potatoes, M. Ritz would have greeted
such an order as though it were a flash of genius, and would probably
have sent out to the nearest cab shelter for the dishes.
During the early days of the Savoy M. Ritz was quietly teaching the
English with money to spend that a good dinner is not of necessity a
long dinner, and that a few dishes exquisitely cooked are better than
a long catalogue of rich dishes. M. Echenard, looking like a Spanish
hidalgo, quite understood the ways of his two great colleagues--for
MM. Ritz and Escoffier are two of the greatest men in gastronomic
history--and backed them up nobly. The cholera year in Marseilles
took M. Echenard back to his hotel in the south, and he has prospered
exceedingly there, being now the proprietor of the Reserve and the
hotel just below it on the Corniche, as well as the Louvre. MM. Ritz
and Escoffier have since made the fortunes of other London restaurants.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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