The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
Stout is the classic accompaniment to oysters, and it is possible to
eat the bivalves actually in the shadow of Meux's great Horseshoe
Brewery, for the Horseshoe Tavern next door has an oyster dive down in
the basement, just below its grill-room. On the way down to the dive
you pass the great spirit casks of the Horseshoe safely placed behind a
grille, the biggest cask of all being that of the ten-year-old "Annie
Laurie" whisky, which holds 1000 gallons. The oyster bar resembles a
horseshoe in shape, and behind it is a wall of small kegs of Meux's
stout. The Horseshoe is a good old-fashioned British house, with one of
the largest open fires in London, and I remember that once when there
was an especially splendid haunch of venison to be cooked for a party
of gourmets Mr Baker was approached, and the venison feast was held at
the Horseshoe.
Rule's Oyster-house, in Maiden Lane, in the window of which are two
huge shells from Singapore and many big champagne bottles, is a house
of many associations with the men of the pen of Victorian days. Albert
Smith was the demigod of the establishment. Mark Lemon, Douglas
Jerrold, Henry Irving, Besant and Rice, Thackeray, Wilkie Collins,
Yates and Sala were some of the men who used to eat oysters in Maiden
Lane and who have accorded appreciation of them. There are busts and
portraits on the walls of the rooms of many theatrical celebrities, and
in one room is a fine collection of Dighton caricatures.
White's and Gow's, in the Strand, both old-established fish and oyster
houses, each deserve a word, and the Chandos, over against the National
Portrait Gallery, gives its oyster-eating patrons six oysters, a glass
of stout, and bread and butter for a shilling.
Sweeting's, in Fleet Street, is especially dear to me, because of
its sawdusted floor. The front of the house has been set back in the
widening of the street, but the house remains very much as it was. By
the marble-topped counters are wooden stools, on which the lunchers
perch like sparrows, and besides the oysters there are fish snacks and
big lobsters, and on one of the counters is a selection of sandwiches
of all kinds. Upstairs there are two floors of dining-rooms for people
who want something more solid than oysters or sandwiches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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