The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
No chapter on oyster-houses would be complete without reference to
Driver's in Glasshouse Street, and Wilton's in King Street, both
houses which supply the clubs and great restaurants with oysters, and
which, as well, open oysters for hungry customers at their counters.
At Driver's a little screen of stained glass only partially conceals
the oysters which are spread out on the broad space behind the glass.
On the door is the simple legend, "Driver, Oysterman," and inside
are three black-coated men opening oysters behind the counter. In a
little glass box sits a lady cashier. This in old days used to be where
Mrs Driver sat, and could always spare time for a smile and a word
to an old customer. On the wall behind the counter is a board with
the orders for oysters contained by clips, and two shelves, on which
are rows of big shells, showing wide surfaces of mother-o'-pearl. A
little staircase leads to an upper room, where sybarites can sit and
eat oysters and caviare and bread and cheese, and there is a little
table downstairs tucked away behind the staircase; but I am one of the
stalwarts who have always stood at the counter at Driver's to eat my
oysters and to wipe my fingers afterwards on the pendant napkins.
Behind Wilton's plate-glass windows there are warrants suitably
framed, and the proprietor is generally to be seen either behind his
counting-desk or the little oyster bar in the spacious shop. Wilton's
at one time used to purvey Irish oysters, as well as other British
varieties, but the supply was so uncertain that they have been taken
off the list.
If I have omitted to give the prices of the oysters at the various
oyster-houses, it is because they vary so much. One can buy native
oysters in the shops at Whitstable for 1s. a dozen, or 1s. 9d. for
twenty-five. By the time they arrive in London their cheapest price is
1s. 6d. a dozen, and the specially selected ones, which are sometimes
called "Royal Natives," cost as much at some oyster-houses as 3s. 6d.
a dozen. Seconds, Anglo-Dutch and Anglo-Portuguese are each a step
lower down in price. American oysters are to be obtained in Paris at
Prunier's, but I know of no house in London at the present time which
imports them. Ten years ago they were obtainable at two of the houses.
IX
WHITEBAIT AT GREENWICH
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account