The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
What, however, was radically wrong at first with the Cecil Restaurant
was its decoration. It is a very large, very high pillared hall, with
a glazed balcony overlooking the Victoria Gardens, and big windows on
the west giving a glorious view of Westminster; but its decorations
were at first too sombre in colour. The panelling was of walnut wood,
a large square of deep crimson velvet was embroidered with the Cecil
arms, the great mantelpieces of purple-grey Sicilian marble conformed
to the quiet scheme of colour, and the pillars and great window
casings all harmonised in the minor key. The mantelpieces are all
that remain to-day of the original scheme of colouring, and they are
scarcely noticeable amidst the shimmer of pink and white and gold.
A minor drawback was that the restaurant had no ante-room, and that
a dinner-giver had to await his guests in the bustling hall of the
hotel. People who dined at the Cecil Restaurant in those days praised
the cooking, and had nothing except good words for the attendance and
wine, but they said it was not "cheery." Nine out of ten ladies or men
did not trouble to analyse their feelings, but it was the coldness of
their surroundings that affected them.
To tear down all the decorations of a newly built hall is an heroic
remedy which no board of directors would willingly face, and before
this was done other less expensive remedies were tried. A separate
entrance for the restaurant was made in the courtyard, and a lounge
built and quite charmingly decorated. M. Paillard, the great Parisian
restaurateur, crossed the Channel and became for a time manager of
the restaurant, making with M. Coste in the kitchen a remarkable
combination of talent. A Roumanian band, fierce-looking gentlemen in
embroidered garments, who had been sensationally successful at one of
the great exhibitions in Paris, were imported, were perched up on a
rostrum and made the roof reverberate with their czardas. The services
of "Smiler," a curry-cook of great renown, were exclusively retained
for the Cecil. (Sherry's in New York offered "Smiler" large sums of
money to transfer his services, and he crossed the Atlantic with a
little band of underlings of his own nationality. "Smiler" travelled
first class, and the reporters on the other side not unnaturally
took him to be an Indian Prince on his travels. "Smiler" did not
undeceive them, and enjoyed for some days all the privileges given
to royalty in a republic. Then he reported at Sherry's.) Mr Hector
Tenant, the managing director of the Empire, joined the Cecil board,
and a series of variety performances after dinner on Sundays filled
the big restaurant to its holding capacity on those evenings. Harry
Lauder, concerning whose talent and fine voice everybody was talking
at that time, sang, I remember, on one of those occasions. But there
must have been some excellent reasons for not continuing these variety
performances, for after a time they ceased.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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