The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
I reach back in memory farther in touch with Claridge's than with any
other hostelry in London, One of the stories of her early life that my
mother often told me when I was a small boy was how my grandfather,
as crotchety an elderly widower as ever ruled an Indian district,
when he finally retired from the service of John Company, arrived in
London with his bullock trunks and sandalwood boxes lined with tin, his
bedding rolled up in bundles, his guns, his fly-whisks, and palm-fans,
and all the strange paraphernalia that an Anglo-Indian official
gathered about him in those days. With him came his faithful bearer,
and an ayah, and his little pale daughter, and they all descended at
Claridge's Hotel--though perhaps in those days it might have been
Mivart's. The first great grief of the little girl's life was that
the "Nabob," as my grandfather was called in the family, delivered a
"hookum" to the manager of the hotel that an English nurse must be
provided directly for his small daughter, as the ayah ought to return
at once to her own country, and my mother was obliged to say good-bye
to her devoted Indian attendant. My first personal introduction
to Claridge's was when, as a schoolboy, I was invited by another
schoolboy, who wished to show off, to go with him to visit a German
_Graf_, a nobleman with a very long string of minor titles, whose
greatest glory was that he owned a castle on the Rhine. The _Graf_ was
very polite to the two little English boys, and talked to us in very
bad English; and when we took our departure he saw us to the door as
though we had been persons of the greatest importance. Mr Claridge,
wearing a skull-cap of velvet, happened to be in the hall as we passed
through, and I remember well the beautiful bow that he gave to the
Count. Mr Claridge's bows were celebrated; they were of a different
depth, according to the rank of the person to whom he bowed, and there
was even a delicate difference in the salute that he gave to a Serene
Highness to that with which he welcomed a Royal Highness. Claridge's in
those days consisted of half-a-dozen houses connected with each other,
and the best rooms in these houses formed the suites where the various
royalties who patronised the hotel lodged, Mr Claridge and his staff
of servants being always on the watch that the privacy of his guests
should not be invaded. On one occasion, when a famous caricaturist took
a room at the hotel, Mr Claridge waited on him and informed him that
he must transfer his custom elsewhere, for, though he, Mr Claridge,
was a great admirer of the artist's talent, and decorated the walls of
some of the rooms with his work, he could never allow a royal personage
to be caricatured within the walls of his hotel. Not that Mr Claridge
himself always spoke too respectfully of the great ones of the earth.
Archbishop Temple used to tell a story that when in 1846 the Pope
seriously thought of taking refuge in England, Mr Claridge remarked
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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