The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
It is a restaurant in which dinner takes its right place as one of the
tranquil pleasures of life. The music of the band is never too loud,
the fine napery and the admirable glass are pleasant to the touch, the
flowers in the silvered stands of the table lamps give an agreeable
touch of colour, the cut glass of the pendent electroliers sparkles,
and the first and the second _maîtres d'hôtel_, M. Invernizzi, who
comes from the Palace Hotel, at St Moritz, to London for the season,
and M. Castelani, who is a permanency at Claridge's, are tactfully
attentive, while M. Gehlardi, the manager of the hotel, walks through
the rooms during the course of dinner to bow here and there at a
table, and to assure himself that all is well. It is the clientele
of Claridge's that has made its atmosphere, for the well-dressed,
good-looking, quiet people who dine at the tables, put a comfortable
distance apart, are folk whose names bulk largely in the Society
columns of the newspapers, and the list of the diners on any given
night in Claridge's Restaurant would be for the most part a string of
titles. Good manners are in the air, and I do not think that even the
rawest plutocrat could be unmannerly amidst such surroundings.
On the night that I last dined at Claridge's, I had written beforehand
asking that a table for three should be reserved for me, and I had
intended to give my guests the larger of the two dinners of the
restaurant, the twelve-and-six one, which runs through the usual
courses, and which is by no means a set dinner, for any dish which does
not exactly match the fancy of a dinner-giver is changed for another to
suit his whim or his palate. But I found that a special little feast
had been ordered for me by M. Gehlardi, and the menu of it was as
follows:--
Melon Cantaloup.
Bortch à la Russe.
Filets de Sole Newnham-Davis.
Noisette d'Agneau aux Fines Herbes.
Petits pois frais. Pommes Noisettes.
Coq en Pâte.
Salade de Romaine à l'Estragon.
Fraises Parisienne.
Friandises.
The _chef de cuisine_ at Claridge's is M. Maurice Bonhomme, who had
passed through the kitchens of two great Parisian restaurants, the
Café de Paris, and Ledoyen's, in the Champs Elysées, before he came to
London. He is a chef of high repute, and these are the specialities
of his kitchen:--_filet de sole Tosca, suprême de sole Pré Catalan,
Coulibiac de saumon, suprême de volaille d'Orléans, cailles Hacchi
Pacha, Coq en Pâte Claridge's, pêches Caprice, fraises Delphine_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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