The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth
unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to
success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and
delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of
their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what
cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had
been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance
of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region
crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but
we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we
had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We
would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success.
It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North
Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only
two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to
penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid
passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being
compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel
had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to
ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter.
On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered
to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives
(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one
of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition;
the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at
which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us.
The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from
the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely
clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far
back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de
glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being
discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet.
The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles.
Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction,
whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every
form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to
distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence
the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright
colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work
describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this
colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an
alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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