The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Would you see a charming village church, a jewel in its sort? Then, when
reaching Skelton, three miles onward, explore the bye-road at the back of
the village, over whose clustered few roofs its Early English bell-cote
peeps. But a moment, please, before we reach it. This “bye-road” is the
original highway, and the “back” of the village street its old front.
There is a moral application somewhere in these altered circumstances for
those who have the wit, the inclination, and the opportunity to seek it.
[Picture: Skelton Church]
The improved road, a hundred years old, is carried straight and level
past the rear of the cottages, and the rugged old one goes serpentining
past the front doors, where the entrance to the “Bay Horse” looks out
across a little green to where the church stands, the faded old Bay Horse
himself wondering where the traffic that use to pass this way has all
gone to. The signs of the “Bay Horse” and the “Yorkshire Grey” are, by
the way, astonishingly frequent on the Great North Road.
But the church. It is an unpretending building, without a tower, and
only a bell-cote rising from its broad roof; but perfect within its
limits. Early English throughout, with delicately-cut mouldings,
beautiful triple lancets at the east end, and fine porch, the green and
grey harmonies of its slate roof and well-preserved stonework, complete a
rarely satisfying picture. A legend, still current, says it was built
from stone remaining over after the building of the south transept of
York Cathedral, in 1227. The Church in the Wood it was then, for from
the gates of York to Easingwold, a distance of thirteen miles, stretched
that great Forest of Galtres, through which, to guide wandering
travellers, as we have already seen, the lantern-tower and burning
cresset of All Saints in the Pavement, at York, were raised aloft.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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