The Haciendas of Mexico: An Artist's RecordBartlett, Paul Alexander
History
The Haciendas of Mexico: An Artist's Record
Bartlett, Paul Alexander
Bartlett, Paul Alexander, 1909-1990; Haciendas -- Mexico -- Pictorial works; Haciendas in art
One of the most famous haciendas, in the state of Jalisco, is Ciénega
de Mata, legalized by the Crown in 1697. Owned by the Rincón Gallardo
family, it was a tract of eighty-seven estancias (ranches). According
to Alfonso Rincón Gallardo, reminiscing about his father's estate, the
residence was built during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth
centuries. It is a two-story building with twenty rooms and spans or
arches across the front. The church is gray limestone, like the
residence, with a baroque façade. An elaborate coat-of-arms
embellishes the entry. Sculptured pink stone _cantera_ saints and
angels fill various niches. The octagonal dome and tower are richly
carved.
[Illustration: Hacienda de Ciénega de Mata, Jalisco: 16th-century
church.]
Gallardo appreciated the life at Ciénega, the brandings, the roundups,
sheep pasturing, shearings, and weanings. "I liked to ride with the
cowboys," he wrote, "those extraordinary horsemen, pleasant companions,
tanned by sun and wind, simple in tastes, frank, never tiring--the
classic men of the great haciendas."
Recalling his life he tells us:
Every morning after breakfast, all of us--my father dressed in his
charro outfit; my mother attired English style--would set out on
horseback, riding about the hacienda's vast fields of corn and
barley. After the midday meal, back at the house, we walked about
the stables, the granaries, and over a small hill that lay nearby;
and sometimes we played fronton or went out riding again. At
night, after supper, we read or played games. In this tranquil,
pleasant manner, life went on, broken only by the annual festival,
an event celebrated on a grand scale with parades, banquets, horse
races, cockfights, boxing matches, and, in the evening, a fantastic
display of fireworks.
[Illustration: Hacienda cattle brand]
Brantz Mayer, secretary of the United States Legation in Mexico during
1841 and 1842, enjoyed a horseback visit to the Hacienda de San
Nicolás, near Tetécala, in the state of Mexico. He admired the white
buildings and the neatness of the estate: "The sugarcane fields were in
capital order, the roads smooth, the fences maintained; cattle were
under the care of herdsmen."
[Illustration: Hacienda de Cabezón, Jalisco: chapel Virgin; her
elaborate wardrobe valued at $50,000.]
The _mayordomo_ was hospitable and accommodated Mayer and his party
with comfortable rooms. Following dinner, Mayer walked among the
hacienda's fields of sugarcane. He inspected the _tienda de raya_ (the
general store), and the hacienda's offices, kitchens, parlors,
bedrooms, and an "immense corridor of arches filled with caged birds,
hung with hammocks, where the family pass most of the long warm days of
summer."
[Illustration: Hacienda de Cabezón, Jalisco: capital, front of
residence. 1800: building designed by architect Eduardo Tresguerras.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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