The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
The commercial system established in France for bringing the produce
of the sea into the market is of a highly-elaborate and intricate
character. The direct consequence of this system is, that the price of
fish goes on increasing from its first removal from the shore until
it reaches the market. This fact cannot be better illustrated than
by tracing the fish from the moment they are landed on the quay by
the fishermen through various intermediate transactions until they
reach the hands of the fishmonger of Paris. The first agent into
whose hands they come is the _ecoreur_. The _ecoreur_ is usually a
qualified man appointed by the owners of the vessels, the municipality,
or by an association termed the _Société d’Ecorage_. He performs
the functions of a wholesale agent between the fisherman and the
public. He is ready to take the fish out of the fisherman’s hands as
soon as they are landed. He buys the fish from the fisherman, and
pays him at once, deducting a percentage for his own services. This
percentage is sometimes 5, 4, or even as low as 3½ per cent. He
undertakes the whole risk of selling the fish, and suffers any loss
that may be incurred by bad debts or bad sale, for which he can make
no claim whatever upon the owner of the boat. The system of _ecorage_
is universally adopted, as the fisherman prefers ready money with a
deduction of 5 per cent rather than trouble himself with any repayment
or run the risk of bad debts. Passing from the _ecoreur_ we come to the
_mareyeur_—that is, the merchant who buys the fish from the wholesale
agent. He provides baskets to hold the fish, packs them, and despatches
them by railway. He pays the carriage, the town-dues or duties, and
the fees to the market-crier. Should the fish not keep, and arrive in
Paris in bad condition, and be complained of by the police, he sustains
the loss. As regards the transport arrangements, the fish are usually
forwarded by the fast trains, and the rates are invariable, whatever
may be the quality of the fish. Thus, turbot and salmon are carried at
the same rate as monkfish, oysters, and crabs. On the northern lines
the rate is 37 cents per ton per kilometre; upon the Dieppe and Nantes
lines, 25 or 26 cents; which gives 85 or 96 francs as the carriage of
a ton of fish despatched from the principal ports of the north—such as
St. Valery-sur-Somme, Boulogne, Calais, and Dunkerque—and 130 francs
per ton on fish despatched from Nantes.
The fish, on their arrival in Paris, are subjected to a duty. For the
collection of this duty the fish are divided into two classes—viz.,
fine fresh fish and ordinary fresh fish. The fine fish—which class
includes salmon, trout, turbot, sturgeon, tunny, brill, shad, mullet,
roach, sole, lobster, shrimp, and oyster—pay a duty of 10 per cent of
the market value. The duty upon the common fresh fish is 5 per cent.
This duty is paid after the sale, and is then of course duly entered in
the official register.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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