Even in Pangasinán, good roads must come to an end, and ours did as we neared the Agno River. For this blessed river is a curse to its neighborhood, and rises in flood from a stream say seventy-five yards wide to a rushing lake, if the expression be permitted, half a mile and more across. Our car finally refused to move; its wheels simply turned _in situ_, so deep was the sand. There was nothing for it but to walk to the river bank, where we were met with many apologies. A bamboo bridge had been built across the stream a few days before so that our cars might cross, but yesterday's rain had washed it down, and would we try to cross on rafts? We looked at the rafts, bamboo platforms built over large _bancas_ (canoes, double-enders cut out of a single log), the bamboos being lashed together with _bejuco_ (rattan, the native substitute for nails), and decided that no self-respecting motor would stand such transportation, but would go to the bottom first by overturning. So we got our stuff aboard the rafts, were poled over, and made the rest of the journey to Tayug, our first considerable halt, in _carromatas_ (the native two-wheeled, springless cart). Fortunately the distance was short, the _carromata_ being an instrument of torture happily overlooked by the Spanish Inquisition. At Tayug a great concourse of people welcomed us, with arches, flags, and decorations. The _presidencia_, or town hall, was filled with the notabilities, and Mr. Forbes was presented with an address by one of the _señoritas_. Suitable answer having been made, we adjourned, the men first, the women following when we had done, according to native custom, to the side rooms, where a surprisingly good tiffin had been got ready for us, venison, chickens, French rolls, _dulces_ (sweets), whiskey and soda, Heaven knows what else, to which, all unwitting of our doom, we did full justice. About two miles beyond Tayug lies San Francisco, the initial point of our real mounted journey. The people along this part of the road had simply outdone themselves in the matter of arches, there being one at every hundred yards almost. At San Francisco the crowd was greater than at Tayug; and here was set out for us another sumptuous tiffin, in a house built the day before for this very purpose, of bamboo and nipa palm. Access to it was had by a ladder and we sat down at a table, while the _señoras_ of the place waited on us, every inch of standing-room being occupied by people who had crowded in to see the performance of the Governor-General and of his _comitiva!_ And perform we did--we had to! Ducks, chickens, venison, _camotes_ (sweet potatoes), peppers, beer, red wine--no one would have thought that but three-quarters of an hour before we had just gone through the same thing. But it would have been the height of discourtesy to give way to our inclination by showing a lack of appetite; moreover, it is not often that a party is held in a house built to be used merely one hour.