The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
The fresh-water canal, which had now been completed for five years,
had not effected any marked improvement upon the melancholy environs
of the town, where desolation still reigned as ever; no gardens, no
plantations, no verdure relieved the eye, which sought its refreshment
from the blue sky and the azure sea. The hopeful expectations which
were entertained from that canal seem by no means to have been
realised. The deposit of any fertilising soil proceeded very slowly,
and hitherto had made no change in the condition of vegetation at Suez,
except just at the foot of the Mokkatan mountains, where the boulder
flats, unimpregnated with salt, are traversed by a separate side branch
of the main canal. Large fields of vegetables are cultivated here, and,
without the aid of man, many varieties of desert plants contribute
to the verdure. The tourist who loves to inscribe fresh acquisitions
in his diary, may here without trouble find the far-famed “rose of
Jericho,” which he would seek in vain around the suburbs of Cairo.
In order to reach Khartoom, I had chosen the sea-route by Suakin, so
as to avoid the heat and fatigue of a journey through the great Nubian
desert. This sea-route, by Suakin and Berber, is quicker and altogether
less expensive than that by Assouan and Korosko; but it is not
advisable for merchants who are travelling with any quantity of goods,
on account of the heavy duties which are levied both at starting from
Suez and at landing at Suakin.
[Sidenote: ON THE RED SEA.]
To save trouble and time I thought it would be best to proceed
to Djidda, and there hire a sailing vessel to convey our
party across to Suakin. To reach Djidda, I made choice of a little
French packet which was going thither in preference to one of the
Egyptian Azizieh steamers which ply between Suez and Massowa. These
larger vessels do indeed touch both at Djidda and Suakin, but they are
not suited for general travellers. The name of our little steamer was
‘Prince Mohammed Tawfik,’ (the heir-apparent to the throne of Egypt):
it belonged to the “Compagnie Soufrière,” and was commissioned to
supply the sulphur mines of Gimsah on the Egyptian coast with fresh
water every fourteen days. Although it was in no way adapted for
the conveyance of passengers, I was nevertheless quite comfortable
on board. It was a vessel of only 300 tons burden, but by dividing
the receptacle for conveying the Nile water into seven separate
compartments, a great economy of space was effected, and a good hold
reserved. The fact of the captain being a Dane, was a still farther
recommendation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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