The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
It was a memorable morning, that 18th of August, on which the sailing
vessel was prepared to leave the roadstead. Many a curious eye, in
those early hours, was strained to witness the sun, as its disk
rose darkened by the shadow of an eclipse. Above the flood of the
Erythræan Sea appeared a golden sickle, its crescent light bearing
resemblance to the moon. We were detained for yet two days in the
roadstead; but at last we weighed anchor, and the little craft soon
vanished from the midst of its more imposing neighbours, the great
mail ships and men-of-war, which gave such a bright animation to
the anchorage. A refreshing breeze from the north-east carried us
across the gulf. Ever deepening violet shadows covered the shore,
until the obscurity of night had completely hidden Mount St.
Catherine and the Mount of Moses from our gaze. At dawn we were
facing the grim shore of the sulphur mountain. Here we were greeted
by the waving of the French tricolour, which, in the monotonous
grey that mantled the whole land, afforded a bright resting-place for
the weary eye.
According to a treaty made with the Egyptian Government, the Company
are enabled to carry on their operations over 160 miles of coast,
south from Cape Seit, where the Egyptian territory forms a promontory
opposite the peninsula of Sinai. The coast line is similar in outline
to the adjacent Gimsah, whilst, with the group of islands which lie
off it, it forms the entrance of the Gulf of Suez. We now passed
down the narrow channel which divides the group of islands from the
mainland, and there lay before us the bluff of Gimsah, a steep mass
of pure gypsum, white as chalk. This peak is about 200 feet above
the level of the sea: it faces nearly south, its aspect is bare,
and like all the mountains contiguous to the sea on these dreary
and uninhabited coasts, it presents hardly the faintest trace of
vegetation. Since July, 1867, the mines have been worked by a gang of
labourers, of which twenty-six were Europeans and 300 were brought
from Upper Egypt. For a time they were yielding a rich produce,
which afforded the best hopes for the future; but now, like so much
else in the country, have fallen into decay. The mutual intrigues
and corruption of the contractors have yielded a fresh testimony on
the one hand, to the continual ill-luck of the Government, which
seems fated never to be able to improve the bounty of its natural
resources; and on the other, to the ruthless avarice of foreigners,
which is ever stopping the progress of the country. A tedious lawsuit
has laid bare a whole series of scandals, discreditable alike to the
directors and to the administrators of the Viceregal Government. The
state of affairs, even in 1868, was melancholy enough. The Egyptian
Government had contracted to supply work in the mines at a stipulated
daily rate of payment. For the protection of the colony, as well
as for the maintenance of discipline among the workmen, a guard of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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