The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
are known, and to them, as often as a patriarch is required, does
Egypt, according to ancient rule, ever turn to supply the vacancy.
[Sidenote: TROPICAL HEAT.]
In reality the colony of Gimsah, when approached from the sea, did
present quite the appearance of a monastic settlement in the heart
of a desert. Caverns were hewn in all directions, in order to work
the veins of gypseous spar containing the sulphur, and amongst them
lay a row of twelve hexagonal little houses, which were the kilns,
built after the Sicilian fashion, and which might at first be mistaken
for the cells of pious monks. To crown the denial and privation
of this existence, the Company, under the pretext of maintaining
discipline, order, and morality among the miners, had peremptorily
banished all women from the sulphur coasts. This restriction was
especially irritating to the French, and as a refinement of cruelty
was as intolerable as those poisonous fumes of pitch and sulphur
which were here set free from the bowels of the earth. Nevertheless
it would seem to have answered well, for young and old, Arab and
European, went through their work with a diligence such as is rarely
to be observed in other tropical regions. Only when the sun’s heat
after midday was most insupportable, was there a cessation of labour.
At 12 o’clock, when the _employé_ of the Suez Canal, in his period of
repose, sauntered into the coffee-house to take an ice or to enjoy a
game at billiards, the untiring director began his daily circuit of
inspection; and seldom has a quotation seemed to me more apt than that
in which he said that the hour was come in which he must surrender
himself to the sulphurous and torturing flames.
After staying twenty-four hours in the harbour at Gimsah, the ‘Prince
Mohammed Tawfik’ continued its voyage to Djidda, where it arrived on
the fourth day. At that season, when no pilgrims were coming or going,
we found the harbour all but deserted; only one French and two Egyptian
men-of-war were in the security of the roadstead. I easily obtained an
open Arab boat, which I hoped, under favourable gales, should convey me
to Suakin.
On account of the prevalence of north-winds through the greater part
of the year, navigation in the Red Sea is nearly always as easy in
this direction as it is difficult in the contrary. This accounts for
European sailing vessels so rarely reaching Suez; they proceed only as
far as Djidda, and that only when coming from India or at the time of
the pilgrimage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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