The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
twenty-five soldiers was kept at Gimsah; this was rather a
superfluity, since the Egyptian workmen, once taken into service,
could not easily escape. They were hemmed in on one side by wide
deserts, which could not be traversed in a day; and as for danger on
the other from the Bedouins, none could be apprehended. A report about
the Bedouins, which was current at Suez, could not fail to awaken my
interest. The passengers of a mail steamer, which had lately foundered
at the entrance of the Gulf, maintained that they had seen on the
opposite mainland a body of wild men 200 strong, looking out for booty
and for plunder. Assuredly by no exertions could the Bedouins collect
such a force in the course of a few hours. Poor sons of the desert, I
knew them better! An exhausted stomach, shrivelled up on their long
wanderings till it is like an empty water-bottle, is the only voice in
their naturally harmless character which could excite to violence. Give
them a couple of handfuls of durra-corn, and you have made them the
best of friends. Their desire for plunder is limited to the robbing of
turtles’ nests, and the taking of eggs from the neighbouring islands.
[Sidenote: SULPHUR WORKS AT GIMSAH.]
Protected by numberless coral-reefs, the coasts of the Red Sea
everywhere afford to small vessels the most comfortable harbours and
anchorage. Here a short stone quay sufficed as a mole for moorage, and
close behind was a grotto-like cistern in the rock, into which the
water could be pumped by means of pipes connected with the reservoirs
in the ship. On the narrow border of land between the foot of the
rock and the sea, were erected huts of planks for the workmen, and
barracks of stone for the officials of the Company. Such was the
little piece of land on which the colony, composed of representatives
of many a nation, prolonged its deplorable existence. Bounded in
front by the dreary expanse of sea, which was rarely enlivened by a
solitary sail, shut in behind by the sun-scorched gypsum, they were
thus exposed to a double share of direct and reflected rays. The
atmosphere in which they toiled was burdened with the stifling fumes
of sulphur, and oppressed with the perpetual odour of burning
petroleum; not alone the welfare, but the very existence of the
colony, was dependent on the safe return of the steamer which provided
them with food and drink. Whoever has lingered here can form some
conception of the endurances of the poor beasts in our zoological
gardens, which have been brought together from every zone, and caged
in hopeless imprisonment. So monotonously and void of joy did the days
of these wretched miners pass away; they led a life more gloomy than
monastic, which might almost recall the first century of Christendom.
Perhaps such a life belongs to the air, for it may be remembered that
the renowned convents of St. Paul and St. Antony are distant but a few
miles to the north-west; they are remnants of the oldest convents that
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