The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
All water-courses, with a supply of moist soil upon the ground just
sufficient for a few months, although they are not enclosed by heights
like valleys, are comprehended within the Arab designation “el wady.”
Cheerless through the dry season, after the first rain their level
sand flats are clothed with the most luxuriant flora; fresh springing
grasses put forth their little cushion points, and give the sward the
appearance of being dotted with a myriad spikes; then quickly come the
sprouting blades, and all is like a waving field of corn. Halfway
between Singat and Erkoweet we halted in a wady of this character,
which bore the name of Sarroweet. What a prospect! how gay with its
variety of hue, green and red and yellow! Nothing could be more
pleasant than the shade of the acacia, nothing more striking than the
abundance of bloom of the Abyssinian aloe, transforming the dreary
sand-beds into smiling gardens. Green were the tabbes-grass and the
acacias, yellow and red were the aloes, and in such crowded masses,
that I was involuntarily reminded of the splendour of the tulip beds
of the Netherlands; but here gardens lay in the midst of a waste of
gloomy black stone. One special charm of a desert journey is that it
is full of contrasts, that it brings close together dearth and plenty,
death and life; it opens the eyes of the traveller to the minutest
benefits of nature, and demonstrates how every enjoyment is allied to
a corresponding deprivation. Richly laden with treasures I returned to
Singat, where I remained until the 21st of September, and during my
stay I had once again repeated opportunities of studying my old
friends the people of Suakin in their domestic relations.
The coast lands on both sides of the Red Sea offer a striking likeness
to each other, which does not consist in physical resemblances alone.
The people are the same in feeling and in manners, however much the
true Ethiopians, such as the Bishareen, Hadendoa, and Beni-Ammer, may
differ in language and descent from the true Arabs; I say from the
_true_ Arabs, because the term Arab has been at times too
indiscriminately applied, and ought to be limited to the nomads in
Arabia, as distinguished from the settlers. On both coasts the
inhabitants follow the same character of life. They are people of the
deserts, wandering shepherds, and procure whatever corn they may
require from external sources. Even the town life of the Arabs is
essentially half a camp life. As a collateral illustration of this I
may remark that to this day in Malta, where an Arab colony has reached
as high a degree of civilisation as ever yet it has attained, the
small towns, which are inhabited by this active little community, are
called by the very same designations as elsewhere belong to the nomad
encampments in the desert. Half Suakin is like a desert camp, and for
this reason I have called its inhabitants town Bedouins.
[Sidenote: TOWN BEDOUINS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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