The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The rank of noblemen is indicated on their parliamentary robes by the
number of bands of ermine with which they are decorated. A Baron has
two, a Viscount two and a half, an Earl three, a Marquis three and a
half, and a Duke four, whereas on their coronation robes the same effect
is gained by a similar number of rows of black spots on the miniver,
which forms a kind of cape.
As in connection with life at Court there are a number of special
uniforms and official dresses which are carefully prescribed, it is
likely that we should find among the dress of those surrounding the
sovereign, many and excellent examples of survivals. There is, indeed,
one uniform which has come down to us practically unaltered from the
year 1485. This is the dress worn by the Yeomen of the Guard, who may be
looked upon as the King's Retainers. (See Figure 142.)
It is an obvious example of the point that we have dwelt upon in
connection with badges and liveries, for borne on the back and chest are
the royal crown and initials. Of course, the latter have altered from
time to time, and when the King came to the throne the Tudor crown,
which had been superseded by that of St. Edward, was replaced.
[Illustration: FIG. 142.--A Yeoman of the Guard of the present reign.]
The development of the badges on the coat is interesting. In Henry VII's
reign there was the crown and the red and white rose. In the time of
Anne the thistle was added, and the rose was placed upon a stalk. The
Tudor crown was also replaced, for during the Stuart period, St.
Edward's crown had appeared, and the royal motto was added. In the
Georgian period St. Edward's crown again was made use of, while
George III added the shamrock. Now, in King Edward VII's time, we have
the Tudor crown, the rose, thistle, and shamrock, the motto "Dieu et mon
droit," and the initials "E.R."
What the original uniform was, is not quite certain, but practically the
same kind of coat was worn in Henry VIII's reign that appears now. The
ruff would appear to be Elizabethan, though the hat is earlier. The
officers used to wear a similar but more gorgeous uniform, but when
William IV commanded that only officers of the army should be given
commissions in the Guard, the present dress, which is that of a field
officer of the Peninsular period, was introduced. When King Edward VII
came to the throne he left the decision as to whether they should wear
the old Tudor dress, to the officers themselves, and they decided in
favour of the more modern military one. We might mention the halberds
that are carried by the Yeomen, and also allude to some of the duties
which they have carried out, from the making of the King's bed in early
times to searching the Houses of Parliament before the session opens,
which is a memory of Guy Fawkes, and of attending, as they have done for
centuries, at the giving of alms by the sovereign in Westminster Abbey
on Maundy Thursday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account