The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
CORONATION DRESS--PARLIAMENTARY ROBES--MISTAKES IN COURT
DRESS--VESTIGES OF THE WIG AND OF THE CHAPERON--COURT CARDS
The English sovereigns are heads of the Church as well as of the State,
and in connection with their coronation dress there are, as might be
expected, many survivals from the past. The vestments used on the
occasion in question agree almost entirely with those which we have
described as being worn by a bishop at mass. We may except, however, the
amice and the maniple, while the sceptre and crown take the place of the
crosier and the mitre. The first vestment to be put on is of linen, and
is an albe or rochet, and up to the time of James II it was provided
with sleeves--it is known as the _Colobium sindonis_. Over this is
placed the tunicle or dalmatic. This is made of silk, and across it is
worn the stole in the same way as deacons were ordered to do in the year
561. The custom is still followed in Greece and Rome, whereas priests
generally put on the stole immediately after the albe.
Over the dalmatic comes the imperial mantle which seems to have been
originally a chasuble, but is now slit up in front. This garment, which
is of cloth of gold, is embroidered with eagles, that are interesting as
probably representing the claim of the King of England to be Emperor of
Britain and Lord Paramount over all the Islands of the West. In
Charles II's reign further ornaments occurred in the shape of roses and
fleur-de-lys, and on Queen Victoria's mantle there were roses, half red
and half white, as well as thistles, shamrocks, and fleur-de-lys, while
the eagles were embroidered in silver.
At the coronation of King Edward VII the vestments which we have
described were all used with the exception of the albe, and to the other
devices on the imperial mantle the lotus flower was added as a symbol
for India, as the King was the first sovereign to be crowned as Emperor
of India.
The robe which the King wears at the opening of Parliament has a cape
of ermine made up in miniver style, and it is lined throughout with the
same fur. We might here say that ordinary ermine is decorated with the
tails of the stoat, which remain black when this animal puts on its
winter dress, whereas in the case of miniver the fur is spotted all over
with little black pieces made from the skin of some other animal. This
has not always been the same, but at the present time Persian lamb is
used.
The magnificence of the King's parliamentary robe and its train of
crimson velvet may be gathered from the fact that in the making of the
miniver, upwards of ten thousand pieces of black fur were used. In a
portrait of the King, taken when wearing this robe, he is shown in the
uniform of a Field Marshal, and holds in his hand the Field Marshal's
baton. The latter originally was a box in which the general carried the
orders of his sovereign, and it is rather curious that what was once the
emblem of the servant should come to be used by a crowned head himself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account