The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Very many uniforms seen at Court show the turned-back edges and
the lining of the tails, described when we were dealing with the
evolution of the coat (see p. 34)--for instance, in the case of the
gentlemen-at-arms, and of several officials. We may mention also the
Scottish Archers who wear a green coat with a turned-back part--which
represents the lining--of red velvet.
The style of Court dress which may be worn to-day by civilians has
become somewhat simpler, though ruffles and frills are still to be found
in connection, and may be worn with, what is known as old-style dress
that is always adopted by the legal profession. The knee-breeches come
from the time of William III, and the coat in its original form dates
back to the time of Napoleon. The sides of the coat have, however, been
cut away, and this was done during the last reign, when the alteration
was made for the convenience of those who were not accustomed to wear a
sword.
The more recent simplification of Court dress has, however, provided
pitfalls for the unwary, and all sorts of curious mistakes in small
details are made. To show how easy it is to put a button too many here,
or too few there, we may describe the differences between the old and
new styles. On the old there are seven buttons up the front of the coat
and three on the cuffs. In the new, there are but six in the first case
and none in the second. Again, in the simplified coat there are no
buttons below the flaps (which represent pockets), and but four buttons
behind on the tails. In the old style there are three buttons below the
flaps--while there are similar ornaments on the waistcoat, which is
skirted--and there are six buttons on the tails. Then in addition there
is the wig-bag, to which we shall refer in a moment, at the back of the
coat collar, as well as the frills and ruffles. Although on the lace of
these as much may be spent as on the rest of the costume, the cost of
the simpler dress is really not much less than that of the other. A
survival is, of course, to be seen in the sword and in the simplified
costume, it is worn in a frog instead of on a sling.
We have made it evident how much a man now depends upon his tailor for
correctness in the detail of his Court dress, and it is amusing to find
that wig-bags are put on to modern-style coats, and that the number of
buttons is often quite wrong; but if these are the faults of the tailor,
it is the man himself who is responsible who goes to Court with his
sword hanging at his right side. We have not heard of military men
making such a mistake, but officers have been known to appear with their
cross-belts over the wrong shoulder. It is a good thing for some that
Court etiquette is not so strict as it has been in the past.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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