The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
A curious survival is found in connection with old-style dress and some
of the uniforms which are worn by officials, and we have had to mention
similar vestiges when speaking of the Lord Mayor's coachman and of the
Welsh Fusiliers. This is what is known as a wig-bag (see Figures 109 and
113), though in the Lord Chamberlain's descriptions it is now referred
to by the same name as the ornament of somewhat similar origin of the
Welsh Fusiliers, namely, the "flash." It consists of a small bag of
silk, at the bottom corners of which little satin ribbon loops are
fixed, while the whole is covered by an elaborate rosette of satin
ribbon, and is suspended from the back of the coat collar. The bag
represents the old bag in which the bob of the wig was placed, and the
loops no doubt are those through which a ribbon was passed, which went
round the neck of those who wore wigs, and was secured by a jewel on the
breast. This was to provide against the wig being lost, should it fall
from the head of its wearer, for these curious replacements of natural
hair were of considerable value, costing twenty, thirty, sixty or even
more guineas. The rosette of ribbon is the modern representative of the
bow that tied the wig. (See Figure 143.)
We have already traced the connection which Mr. Calthrop has shown
between the cockade and the chaperon, and we might mention again that
this ancient form of head-dress survives in connection with the hood
of the mantle of the Knights of the Garter and of other Orders, for
instance, those of St. Patrick and of the Thistle. (See Figure 144.)
[Illustration: FIG. 143.--The wig-bag or "flash" from a Court suit,
showing the rosette held away and displaying the black silk bag. At
the lower corners of the latter loops are seen, which are probably the
remains of those through which a ribbon was passed, which went round the
neck and fastened on the breast by a brooch.]
In the case of the Knight of the Garter, the hood consists of a flat
piece of crimson velvet about three-quarters of a yard across, slightly
oval in shape, and at a spot a little on one side of the centre is to
be found the remains of the turban of the chaperon. It is a thick ring
covered outside with crimson velvet, and inside with white silk. To
one side of this is fastened a long band of crimson velvet one and
three-quarter times as long as the hood is wide. This represents,
of course, the liripipe of the chaperon. (See page 166 and Figures
122-125.) The edges of the velvet in all cases are ornamented with a
white silk piping. The hood is fixed on the right shoulder, and the band
representing the liripipe is brought across the breast of the wearer.
In addition there are some wide loops and ends of ribbon called the
streamer, and narrow ribbons with which to fasten the structure to the
mantle.
[Illustration: FIG. 144.--The hood from the mantle of a Knight of the
Garter, showing the survival of the chaperon and its liripipe.]
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