The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Though not strictly a theatrical performer, but seen in the circus,
the music-hall, and still also as a wandering mountebank, we have the
acrobat. His dress is simple and eminently suitable for the work which
he has to do; it consists of a vest, of very short trunk hose or
breeches, and long Florentine hose, or, as we now call them, tights.
Though such a costume was worn in the reigns of the early Tudors, in
detail the breeches are very much like those which were worn by Lord
Darnley, the husband of Mary Queen of Scots. Doubtless also in the
tights which are so familiar on the stage we have a survival similar
to that seen in the acrobat, the clown, and the knights of the older
orders.
XXX
NIGHTDRESS
BANDS ON NIGHTGOWNS--NIGHTCAPS--NIGHT ATTIRE WORN IN THE STREET
Going to bed can hardly be called a ceremony; but the dress in which the
bulk of humanity now sleeps can claim to be a special one. There are, of
course, many people, who are not mere casual tramps, who sleep in their
everyday clothes. Drovers who have to go to out-of-the-way places with
cattle, where they can never be sure of getting a lodging, will sleep
possibly after merely removing their outer coat, and it stands to reason
that men engaged in this business can hardly be bothered to carry
luggage with them. Any survivals that we may have to deal with in the
case of our airiest dresses will not take us very far back into history,
because our ancestors, from all accounts, went to an extreme which is
the opposite to that which we have just been mentioning, and instead of
keeping on all their clothes at night, they took them all off and put
on no others. Mr. Calthrop[46] graphically describes a scene which he
supposes to be taking place in the reign of William Rufus. A lady is
disturbed while getting ready for bed by a cry of "sanctuary," and
watches from her window until the fugitive is let into the church by the
monks. In concluding his story, Mr. Calthrop says, "The night is cold.
The lady pulls a curtain across the window, and then, stripping herself
of her chemise, she gets into bed."
A man's nightshirt is severe in cut like that which he wears in the day,
and the sides are slit up in both garments as they are in the dalmatic
and the tunics worn by the Anglo-Saxons, which were like a day shirt,
longer behind than in front. A survival of the latter as an outer
garment is to be seen in the short smocks worn by labourers who dig
drains and do similar work. The lady's nightgown may be elegantly
ornamented with lace in the same way as are the linen garments which she
wears in the daytime; but very often we find a large collar edged with
lace, which recalls the falling band which we have had so often to
mention. (See Figure 160.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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