The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes — John Shaqi
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Now that we have considered the origin of dress as a whole, we may turn
with advantage to the evolution of individual garments. People are very
often pleased to allude to what are called the vagaries of fashion, but
it is curious to notice how little real change is made in costume at the
present time. The really useful characters are always retained, and our
modern clothes can be reduced to a very few types. A skirt is a skirt
whether it falls naturally, is held out all round with a hoop, or
crinoline, or is only supported behind by what at one time was known as
an "improver." And in the same way it may be said that trousers remain
trousers whether they have bell bottoms or are peg tops.
Even types which we recognize as being quite distinct, are often so
closely related as to cause surprise when their family history is made
known. Although it constantly alters as regards details, which from a
constructional point of view are quite unimportant, woman's dress does
not seem to have varied to any very great extent. Consequently, there
are not quite so many curious features to be seen as in the ordinary
clothes or uniforms of men. On the other hand, however, we may with
greater reason hope to find that some primitive characters have survived
until the present day.
No article of clothing could well be simpler than the shawl, and though
there is an art in its arrangement, the only point in its structure that
would appear to invite attention is the presence of a fringe on only two
sides. This seems to be a small matter, but it takes us straight back
to the time when men had ceased to be hunters merely, and having become
agriculturists had learned, as we have already indicated, to weave
fibres with the help of simple looms. From the cloth thus made clothes
were constructed, though skins continued to be used as outer mantles.
When the stuff was taken from these early looms, the threads of the warp
were left hanging from two opposite edges, and the fringe that we have
now on our shawls is a direct survival of this accidental occurrence.
There seems not the slightest doubt but that we can trace the coat from
the shawl. A simple improvement in the latter is to join two edges of
the shawl together and make a tunic. Such a tubular garment was used in
Greece, and, with some slight modifications, is worn by Egyptian women
to-day. It came up to the armpits, was gathered up on to each shoulder
and fastened with two brooches. (Figure 2.)
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Sketch showing the development of the tunic. In
this stage it has no arms.]
The next stage in development would be a sleeved tunic, and how easily
this could be derived from a shawl can be seen by putting a narrow one
over the shoulders and lifting up the arms as shown in Figure 3. The
material has only to be sewn together under the arms, and if necessary
cut into shape.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Diagram showing the way in which a sleeved tunic
is derived from the shawl.]
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