The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes — John Shaqi
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
If the front be not sewn up, we get the coat as we know it; if the edges
be joined along half their length or more, then we have a sleeved tunic,
a shirt, or vest (see Plate III). The smock-frock (see Figure 4) and
gown are more voluminous, while the jersey is short again, and has only
a small opening at the neck. An interesting garment is found among the
costumes of the Bronze Age chieftains of Denmark and their wives,
which have been preserved in the oak coffins of these people, owing to
the action of tannin from the wood which has preserved the woven
material.[5] The article in question belonged to one of the women,
and though the front edges are joined for a short distance, it is
practically a jacket. The sleeves are made all in one piece, and the
garment is very nearly as highly evolved as the Cardigan jacket, which
it very much resembles. (See Figure 5.)
[Illustration: THE SILK VEST WORN BY CHARLES I ON THE SCAFFOLD.
ILLUSTRATING THE SLEEVED TUNIC OPENING FOR A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE
FRONT.
(_From a photograph by Mr. Henry Stevens._)
_PLATE III._]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--A smock frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Jacket of a woman, made in one piece. Bronze
stage of culture (after Worsaae).]
It is by this time clear, that several important garments are the
descendants of the shawl, which is still used by men in the British
Isles under the title of the plaid, or maud.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Man's dress showing buttons on the right side.]
Though differing, of course, in detail, the upper garments of men and
women agree in general construction. One of the points alluded to is
worthy of mention, namely, that the buttons on a man's coat are on
the right side and the buttonholes on his left, while in the case of
women's attire the exact opposite is found--at least, so far as one can
ascertain--in European countries. In the East, the little knobs which
are passed through loops and take the place of buttons, may in the
women's dress be on the right side, and in other Asiatic costumes the
same thing holds good. In connection with this peculiarity, it may be
pointed out that men and women have different ways of doing up buttons.
The man takes hold of the button with his right hand, puts his left
thumb into the buttonhole and pushes the button against it. Then he
pulls the stuff over with his right forefinger and pushes the button
through with his right thumb while he guides it with his left.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.--Woman's dress showing buttons on the left side.]
The woman, on the other hand, puts her right thumb through the
buttonhole, takes hold of the button with the fingers of the same hand,
and finally, if the other hand is at liberty, brings it up to finish the
process. (See Figures 6 to 11.)
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