The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
To explain the difference in the position of the buttons is not by any
means easy. In the correspondence which has arisen out of lectures which
the writer has given on the evolution of dress, it has, in the first
place, been suggested that the arrangement of his clothing permitted a
man to thrust his right and fighting arm into his jacket in order to
keep it warm. This explanation, of course, does not account for the
variation in the case of women.
Dr. Lyman, of Baltimore, has submitted the theory that a man wearing
a loose cloak, toga, or plaid, would grasp it with the left hand and
thrust the left side over the right so as to leave the right-hand free
in order to hold a weapon or implement. A woman would grasp her attire
with her right hand, and push it over the left side and leave her left
arm unencumbered, wherewith to carry a child. It would, however, seem
more natural for the right side to be pulled over the left, but it is
unlikely that a man would fight in a loose cloak, and the toga was only
worn in times of peace. Moreover, the jacket, as we have seen, was
developed from the cloak through the tunic. A tunic was worn under the
toga, and as the only loose edge of the latter lies in the same way as
the buttonhole side of a man's coat, it is feasible that the edges of
the tunic beneath would for convenience be made to lap the same way.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.--First stage. FIG. 9.--Second stage.
Diagrams showing how a man does up a button.]
[Illustration: FIG. 10.--First stage. FIG. 11.--Second stage.
Diagrams showing how a woman does up a button.]
To turn to women's dress, it is customary, as Dr. Lyman says, to carry
children on the left arm, and they are allowed to suck the left breast
to a greater extent than the other. The left side of a bodice could, if
the right lapped over it, be pulled back without exposing so much of the
person as if the reverse held good, and in the case of tightly-fitting
clothing, if the buttons have to be done up with the right hand alone,
the task is made easier. Another interesting little point of difference
between the clothes of the two sexes is, that while the buttons on a
man's wristbands are on the thumb side, those of a woman are on that
which corresponds with the little finger. This arrangement is no doubt
correlated with that previously discussed, but the reason for it is not
obvious.
IV
BUTTONS AS CHRONICLES
EPISODES IN THE LATER HISTORY OF THE COAT AND CUFFS
We have gained some insight into the development of garments as a whole,
and no doubt it is now obvious that the little details of construction
will prove by no means the least attractive part of our subject. It
has become customary to refer to a button as typifying something of
specially small account, though very often much may depend in practice
upon one of these despised articles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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