The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Each button and buttonhole was placed in the middle of similar pieces
of lace or embroidery, so that the sides of the coat were made to look
symmetrical. The object in view was the keeping of the skirts of the
coat together when the wearer was not on horseback. At the present day
the buttons have been duplicated and are on both sides of the coat, and
they are still sewn to ornamental pieces in the uniform of the Grenadier
Guards. The presence of the lower buttons on uniforms and coats is
therefore explained. It might be assumed that the topmost button had
also been doubled and raised above the slit, and that in this way we
have obtained the two ornaments on the back of our coats.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--The tab and buttons on the back of a soldier's
great coat which make a temporary waist.]
Before accepting such a solution of the problem, however, it may be well
to see if the buttons may not have had another origin; and on looking
for some clue we find that two folds take their rise from the point
where the buttons are situated. These may be expected to throw some
light upon the question. The folds are now permanent, but on a
voluminous coat, such as still used by horse soldiers, they can be
produced temporarily (see Figure 15) by setting the two buttons further
apart and running a tab from one to the other. Sir George Darwin has
attempted to carry the history of these two buttons still further
back.[6] He has expressed the opinion that each is one of a pair that
originally kept in place a small tab at the side of the coat, and so
helped to produce a waist when required. (See Figures 17 and 18.)
In some drawings of coats (see Figure 18) the side tabs and their
corresponding buttons are shown in addition to those on the back of the
coat.
There is, however, evidence to show that the buttons were originally
on the sides of the coat, for they are so wide apart as to be to all
intents and purposes in that position, on the uniform overcoats of the
London Electric Tramway drivers. (See Figure 16.)
They may well represent the topmost buttons of the lateral series, still
found on the overcoat of the members of the Corps of Commissionaires. In
this case there are three buttons on each side, of which the middle one
is used for fastening the side-pocket.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.--The buttons and tab on a tramway driver's
coat.]
[Illustration: FIG. 17.--An eighteenth-century coat with side buttons
and tab.]
[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Side tabs and buttons at the back (after
Racinet).]
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