The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is worth while to consider side-pockets, which in their turn are
remnants of lateral openings which were made in coats at the end of
the seventeenth and the beginning of the following centuries. The
sword-handle conveniently protruded through the left-hand slit, which,
like its fellow, ran from the waist to the lower margin of the coat
or stopped half-way. (See Figures 18 and 19.) In the latter case, the
arrangement very much resembles the vertical pocket which has become
common again of recent years. (See Figure 20.)
[Illustration: FIG. 19.--A coat worn at the end of the
seventeenth-century (after H. Bonnart).]
[Illustration: FIG. 20.--A modern coat with side pockets.]
Occasionally a tab, such as that to which reference has been made,
kept the parts of the coat together; but often there were buttons and
buttonholes, at least at the upper end of the openings. These survive
in several cases, such as in the overcoat of the commissionaire, while
the pocket is sometimes represented by a mere flap (see Figure 21)
ornamented with buttons as on the livery of certain footmen.
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--A footman's coat, modern, with vestigial pocket
flaps.]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Coat skirts buttoned back (after Hogarth).]
To sum up the matter, the topmost pair of buttons has come from the
fastenings of the side slit and the lower ones from those of the back
slit. Buttons on the skirt behind have in the meantime had a very
intimate connection with the evolution of the "swallow-tail" coat
(see Figure 24). They were used to fasten the corners of the ordinary
riding-coat together, so that the linings should not be injured by the
sweat of the horses. (See Figure 22.)
Mr. Deane Butcher tells me that he can remember this buttoning back
being done in the case of his uncle, when the latter rode to market or
to church; but in this case it was the two uppermost buttons which
were again brought into use. At dances the coats were also subjected
to similar treatment, and what at first was a temporary condition
afterwards became a permanent one. It is obvious that the turned-back
lining would often be of a different colour from the outside of the
coat, and facings on old uniforms, and in that of the present dress of
a lord-lieutenant (see Figure 23) are derived from the practice of
fastening the corners of the coat together. In the "swallow-tail" the
outer corners have been cut right away. (See Figure 24.)
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--A coat with the skirts buttoned back and
showing the lining.]
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--A dress coat with skirts cut away.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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