The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The buttons, in the interesting cases which we have described, have
been allowed to remain as part and parcel of our costume on account of
their decorative character, and in a great measure the same is true of
those on coat cuffs (see Figure 25). In many cases there are proper
buttonholes, and it is possible to undo the sleeve buttons; but
occasionally the arrangement has degenerated and the buttonholes are
imitations or only the buttons remain.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--A modern coat cuff with buttons.]
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Turned-back cuff, end of seventeenth century
(after Bonnart).]
To find an explanation of this feature we shall have to go back again to
the seventeenth century, when so much was expended upon coats that it
became advisable to turn back the cuffs out of harm's way. To hold them
in position, series of buttons and buttonholes were devised, and just
as the turning back of the skirts was at first temporary and afterwards
came to be done once for all when the coat was made, so the turned-back
cuff grew into a permanent institution. In Figure 26 the buttons are one
above the other as in modern dress, but in the next two Figures (27 and
28) they are horizontal.
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--A coat sleeve (after Hogarth) with a horizontal
row of buttons.]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.--Sleeve of a coat of the seventeenth century,
reputed to have been worn by Charles I.]
A survival of this arrangement can still be seen in the coat sleeves of
the higher clergy. In ordinary dress, the turned-back edge of the cuff
may now only be represented by a band of braid or a row of stitches; but
in soldiers' uniforms, an ornamented cuff persists which represents
in reality the lining of the sleeve. Again, the turned-back cuff is
actually present in the clothes of costermongers, and has been revived
on overcoats to a considerable extent during the last few years. (See
Figure 29.)
As a rule, too, the vertical pocket already described accompanies the
turned-back cuff, as it did some centuries ago. (See Figure 20.)
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--The turned-back cuff on an overcoat, modern.]
[Illustration: FIG. 30.--A sleeve with vertical buttons and a
turned-back cuff as well (from a uniform, after Hogarth).]
It must not be forgotten that buttons have long been used on narrow
sleeves. They are undone when the hand is to be pushed through the
cuff, and afterwards fastened for the sake of warmth or to give a neat
appearance. It is therefore possible that the ring of buttons is more
properly a survival of the time when cuffs were turned back to preserve
them, and that the vertical row is really of earlier origin. A uniform
represented by Hogarth (Figure 30) shows both the row of buttons and the
turned-back cuff, which seems to be quite independent of them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account